
Chef Ally
Beef Bourguignon
Humble beef transformed by good red wine, patience, and the kind of slow cooking that fills a house with warmth and brings everyone to the table asking when dinner will be ready.
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A rustic Italian braise of bone-in chicken simmered with ripe tomatoes, sweet peppers, briny olives, and garden herbs until the meat falls from the bone and the sauce tells you everything about summer.
This is hunter's food. Cacciatore means just that: the kind of meal a hunter might prepare over a fire with whatever the day offered. Foraged herbs. A bird. Tomatoes from a nearby garden. The dish has survived centuries because it asks so little of technique and so much of ingredients.
Start with the chicken. Bone-in pieces braise better than boneless because the bones release gelatin into the sauce, giving it body. Ask your butcher for a whole bird cut into eight pieces, or buy thighs and drumsticks if you prefer dark meat. The skin should be taut and the flesh should smell clean, like nothing at all.
The tomatoes matter more than you might think. In late summer, use ripe ones from the garden or the market, peeled and crushed by hand. The rest of the year, canned San Marzanos are honest and good. Do not apologize for them. A farmer in Italy grew those tomatoes at perfect ripeness and preserved them within hours. That is integrity.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. When you braise chicken with tomatoes from a farm you trust and peppers you watched ripen at the market, the dish tastes different. It tastes alive.
Quantity
3 1/2 pounds
thighs, drumsticks, and breasts
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
3 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1 large
sliced into half-moons
Quantity
2
seeded and sliced into strips
Quantity
1
seeded and sliced into strips
Quantity
6
smashed
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 (28-ounce) can
crushed by hand
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
pitted
Quantity
2 tablespoons
drained
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
4 sprigs
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in, skin-on chicken piecesthighs, drumsticks, and breasts | 3 1/2 pounds |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| extra-virgin olive oildivided | 3 tablespoons |
| yellow onionsliced into half-moons | 1 large |
| red bell peppersseeded and sliced into strips | 2 |
| green bell pepperseeded and sliced into strips | 1 |
| garlic clovessmashed | 6 |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| whole San Marzano tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 (28-ounce) can |
| chicken stock | 1 cup |
| Kalamata olivespitted | 1/2 cup |
| capersdrained | 2 tablespoons |
| dried oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| red pepper flakes | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| fresh thyme | 4 sprigs |
| fresh basil leaves | for finishing |
Pat the chicken pieces completely dry with paper towels. Season generously on all sides with salt and pepper. Let them sit at room temperature while you prepare the vegetables, about twenty minutes. Dry skin browns. Wet skin steams. This is not negotiable.
Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large Dutch oven or braiser over medium-high heat until the oil shimmers and barely smokes. Working in batches to avoid crowding, add the chicken skin-side down. Do not move it. Let it sizzle undisturbed for five to six minutes until the skin releases easily and turns deep golden brown. Flip and brown the other side for three minutes more. Transfer to a plate.
Pour off all but one tablespoon of fat from the pot. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and reduce heat to medium. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to turn golden at the edges, about eight minutes. Add the bell peppers and cook until they soften and their sweetness concentrates, another six to eight minutes.
Push the vegetables to the sides and add the smashed garlic to the center of the pot. Let it sizzle until fragrant, about thirty seconds. Pour in the wine and scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom. These fond particles are flavor. Let the wine bubble until it reduces by half, two to three minutes.
Pour in the crushed tomatoes with their juices. Add the chicken stock, olives, capers, oregano, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, and thyme sprigs. Stir to combine. Taste the sauce and adjust salt. It should be bright from the tomatoes, savory from the olives and capers, with gentle heat in the background.
Nestle the browned chicken pieces into the sauce, skin-side up. The tops should peek above the liquid. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook for forty-five minutes to one hour, until the chicken is tender and cooked through. The meat should want to fall from the bone when you nudge it with a spoon.
Remove the lid and let the dish rest off heat for ten minutes. The sauce will thicken slightly as it settles. Remove the bay leaves and thyme stems. Taste once more and adjust seasoning. The flavors will have deepened and married during the braise.
Transfer chicken pieces to shallow bowls or a large serving platter. Spoon the sauce and vegetables generously over and around. Tear fresh basil leaves over the top. Serve with crusty bread for mopping up the sauce, or alongside polenta or pasta. Let things taste of what they are.
1 serving (about 380g)
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