
Chef Ally
Anchoïade with Seasonal Crudités
A pungent, silky Provençal dip of pounded anchovies and garlic, surrounded by whatever crisp vegetables the market offered that morning. Simple food that rewards good sourcing.
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Ripe summer cherry tomatoes, warm from the market and hollowed gently, filled with tangy fresh goat cheese scattered with garden herbs. A bite that tastes like August should taste.
Start with the tomatoes. They should be heavy in your hand, taut-skinned, and perfumed before you cut them. Perfect ripeness is the whole point here. If your tomatoes are hard, pale, or smell of nothing, this is not the recipe to make today. Wait.
When the fruit is right, do almost nothing. A hollow cherry tomato becomes a vessel for something creamy and herbed, a single bite that delivers sweetness, acidity, and richness all at once. The chèvre should be fresh, soft enough to pipe, tangy enough to stand up to the tomato's brightness. The herbs should be snipped that morning if you can manage it.
I first made these for a garden party in the nineties, when a farmer at the Berkeley market handed me a flat of Sungolds so ripe they were splitting. Too fragile to cook, almost too fragile to transport. The only answer was to celebrate them as they were. A little goat cheese from a neighbor who kept dairy goats. Herbs from the kitchen garden. Olive oil from a California producer I trusted. The guests ate them standing up, juice running down their chins, and asked for nothing else.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. When you buy these tomatoes from a farmer who grew them in real soil under real sun, you are keeping that farm alive for another season. The connection matters. And the tomatoes taste better for it.
Quantity
24 (about 1 pint)
Quantity
4 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
2 tablespoons
finely minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
cut into thin ribbons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe cherry tomatoes | 24 (about 1 pint) |
| fresh chèvreat room temperature | 4 ounces |
| fresh chivesfinely minced | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh basilcut into thin ribbons | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh thyme leaves | 1 teaspoon |
| lemon zest | 1 teaspoon |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Start with the tomatoes. They should be heavy for their size, deeply colored, and fragrant at the stem end. If they do not smell like summer, wait for ones that do. Rinse gently and pat dry. Slice a thin cap from the top of each tomato, reserving the caps if you like the look of them.
Using a small melon baller or the tip of a small spoon, gently scoop out the seeds and pulp from each tomato, creating a small cup. Work carefully so you do not pierce the skin. The walls should be intact but thin enough to let the filling shine through. Turn the hollowed tomatoes upside down on a clean kitchen towel to drain for five minutes.
Turn the tomatoes right side up and season the inside of each with a tiny pinch of flaky sea salt. This draws out moisture and concentrates the tomato flavor. Let them sit another five minutes while you prepare the filling.
In a small bowl, combine the softened chèvre with the chives, basil, thyme, lemon zest, and two tablespoons of olive oil. Mix with a fork until the herbs are evenly distributed and the cheese is smooth enough to pipe but still has texture. Season with a pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. Taste it. The filling should be bright and herbaceous.
Transfer the cheese mixture to a small piping bag fitted with a star tip, or simply use a small spoon. Fill each tomato generously, mounding the cheese slightly above the rim. The filling should look abundant, not stingy. If using a spoon, use its back to create a small swirl on top.
Arrange the stuffed tomatoes on a serving platter. Drizzle with your best olive oil, letting it pool around the base. Scatter a few extra herb leaves over the top if you have them. A final pinch of flaky salt. These are best eaten within an hour or two, while the tomatoes still have their aliveness and the cheese stays creamy.
1 serving (about 19g)
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