
Chef Jeong-sun
Bulgogi (불고기, Marinated Grilled Beef)
Paper-thin beef in soy, sesame, garlic, and grated pear, cooked fast until the edges caramelize and served in lettuce wraps at the kind of table people lean into.
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Brisket point shaved paper-thin, grilled bare until the fat curls and turns nutty, then eaten immediately with sesame-salt, scallion salad, lettuce, and rice.
Chadolbagi-gui lives or dies in seconds. Not minutes. Seconds. The beef is sliced so thin that the fat firms in the freezer, hits the grill, tightens, curls, and browns before a slow cook has even reached for more tongs. If you season it first, you lose the clean taste of the beef. If you wait to eat it, you lose the point of the dish.
Chadolbagi is a Korean butchery term for the fatty white-streaked section of beef brisket, named for the hard, pale fat that resembles chadol, a quartz-like stone. Its modern restaurant form depends on mechanical slicing and tabletop grilling, which spread widely in South Korea in the late twentieth century as beef barbecue restaurants became everyday urban eating rather than rare occasion food. It is not an old court dish; it is modern Korean barbecue technique built around one exact cut and one exact speed.
Quantity
600g
shaved 1 to 2 mm thick and kept very cold
Quantity
1 teaspoon
only if using a skillet
Quantity
1 tablespoon
lightly crushed for dipping salt
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for dipping
Quantity
4
very thinly shredded
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for scallion salad
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for scallion salad
Quantity
12
rinsed and dried
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
2 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chadolbagi (thin-sliced beef brisket)shaved 1 to 2 mm thick and kept very cold | 600g |
| neutral oil (optional)only if using a skillet | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seedslightly crushed for dipping salt | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oilfor dipping | 2 tablespoons |
| scallionsvery thinly shredded | 4 |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oilfor scallion salad | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seedsfor scallion salad | 1 teaspoon |
| perilla leaves or red leaf lettuce leavesrinsed and dried | 12 |
| cooked short-grain rice | to serve |
| ssamjang (seasoned soybean-chili paste) (optional) | to serve |
| garlic (optional)thinly sliced | 2 cloves |
| green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 |
Keep the chadolbagi in the refrigerator until the grill is ready. If the slices are frozen together, let them sit 5 to 8 minutes, just until you can separate them without tearing. The fat must stay firm so the beef browns fast instead of melting into the pan before the meat cooks.
Stir the crushed toasted sesame seeds, fine sea salt, and black pepper together in a small dish. Set the sesame oil in a second dish, or pour it over the salt mixture at the table. This dip is measured because the beef is bare; too much salt hides the cut, too little makes the fat taste flat.
Soak the shredded scallions in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain and dry them well. Toss with soy sauce, rice vinegar, gochugaru, sugar, sesame oil, and sesame seeds. Do this just before grilling so the scallions stay lively. Their sharpness cuts the brisket fat, which is why they belong on this table.
Heat a tabletop grill, heavy cast-iron pan, or wide skillet over medium-high heat until a slice of beef sizzles the instant it touches. If using a skillet, wipe on 1 teaspoon neutral oil and no more. Chadolbagi brings its own fat, and a greasy pan makes it heavy.
Lay on only enough slices to sit in one layer. Cook 20 to 30 seconds, until the edges curl and the underside browns in spots, then turn and cook 10 to 20 seconds more. Pull each slice as soon as the red disappears and the fat looks glossy and lightly browned. Do not wait for a crust like steak; this cut is too thin for that.
Dip a slice lightly in sesame-salt, then eat it with scallion salad, rice, and a perilla or lettuce leaf. Add a dot of ssamjang, garlic, or green chili if you like, but keep your hand light. Let it taste like itself. The first slice tells you whether the grill is hot enough, so adjust before the second round.
1 serving (about 335g)
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