
Chef Isabel
All Cremat de Vilanova
All Cremat de Vilanova is Catalan boat cooking: garlic taken dark in olive oil, then tomato, fish stock, and firm fish, no potato, just a broth with nerve.
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Caldillo de perro is from the Bay of Cadiz: hake or whiting in a clear garlic and onion broth, finished with sour orange so the fish stays clean and bright.
Caldillo de perro is Gaditano, from El Puerto de Santa Maria and the Bay of Cadiz, and it is not a thick fish stew. It is a clear fishermen's soup: onion, garlic, olive oil, white fish, parsley, and the juice of a bitter Seville orange. The name sounds like a joke, and it is a little one. There is no dog in it, only a poor kitchen making good sense of fresh fish and sour fruit.
The method that decides it is gentleness. Cook the onion and garlic slowly in olive oil until soft and sweet, but don't brown them. Then simmer the fish only until it flakes. If you boil it hard, the broth clouds and the hake turns dry, and the whole point of the dish is gone. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, but light enough for the coast.
If you can't find naranja amarga, bitter Seville orange, use mostly orange juice with a little lemon juice. It won't have quite the same floral bitterness, but it gives the sharp lift the soup needs. Add it off the heat or at the table, never let it boil. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Caldillo de perro belongs to El Puerto de Santa Maria and the fishing towns of the Bay of Cadiz, where small hake, whiting, and other white fish were cooked plainly in broth after the market's best pieces had gone elsewhere. The sour orange is the mark of the dish, tied to the bitter oranges common in Andalusian patios and streets, and it cuts the oil and fish without making the soup heavy. Its odd name is part of the local record: a humble broth with a teasing title, kept alive because it fed people well and asked for very little.
Quantity
600g
skin removed, cut into 5cm pieces
Quantity
1, about 250g
thinly sliced
Quantity
4
thinly sliced
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 litre
Quantity
8g, plus more to taste
Quantity
30g
leaves chopped, stems reserved
Quantity
1, about 60ml juice
juiced
Quantity
1 small orange plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
juiced
Quantity
4 slices
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| hake or whiting filletsskin removed, cut into 5cm pieces | 600g |
| large onionthinly sliced | 1, about 250g |
| garlic clovesthinly sliced | 4 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| water or light fish stock | 1 litre |
| fine sea salt | 8g, plus more to taste |
| fresh parsleyleaves chopped, stems reserved | 30g |
| bitter Seville orangejuiced | 1, about 60ml juice |
| sweet orange plus lemon juice (optional)juiced | 1 small orange plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice |
| day-old country bread (optional) | 4 slices |
Pat the hake dry and season it with 3g of the salt. Leave it on a plate while you start the broth. This short rest firms the surface just enough so the fish holds together in the pot.
Warm the olive oil in a wide pot over low heat. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, parsley stems, and the remaining 5g salt. Cook gently for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft, pale gold, and sweet. Do not brown it; this broth wants sweetness, not toast.
Add the water or light fish stock and bring it to a quiet simmer. Cook for 8 minutes so the onion gives itself to the broth. Taste for salt now, before the fish goes in, because later you should touch the pot as little as possible.
Lower the hake pieces into the simmering broth in one layer. Keep the heat low, with only small bubbles at the edges, and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, depending on thickness, until the fish just flakes when nudged. No hard boiling. A rough boil breaks the fish and muddies the clean broth.
Take the pot off the heat. Remove the bay leaf and parsley stems. Stir in the bitter orange juice and most of the chopped parsley, or use the sweet orange and lemon mix if that's what you have. Taste once more. The broth should be clear, garlicky, gently oily, and sharp at the finish.
Set a slice of day-old bread in each bowl if you like, then ladle the fish and broth over it. Scatter with the remaining parsley and put extra bitter orange or lemon-orange mix on the table. Serve immediately, while the fish is tender and the broth still tastes fresh.
1 serving (about 330g)
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Chef Isabel
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