
Chef Klaus
Bayerische Martinsgans
The Bavarian St. Martin goose is won in the first slow hour: render the fat gently, spoon it off, then let the skin go crisp and mahogany at the end.
A cooking platform built around craft, culture, and the stories behind what we eat.

Created by
The Bavarian beer-hall chicken that works at home because the skin dries first, the beer goes on late, and the bird is turned until every side has colour.
Bierhendl belongs to Bavaria, to the beer garden, the fairground, and the Wiesn table, where a good roast chicken is served in halves with potato salad, a pretzel, or nothing more than a knife and patience. Das ist kein Bierzelt trick, even if the tents sell mountains of it. It is a whole bird, seasoned hard, roasted until the skin goes mahogany, and basted with beer and butter only when the skin can take it.
Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. In the north, a chicken is more likely to meet herbs, mustard, or a sharper pan sauce; in Bavaria the argument is simpler: paprika or no paprika, caraway or no caraway, beer in the baste or beer only in the glass. I use sweet paprika, a little caraway, and a pale Bavarian lager because they belong to the dish without shouting over the chicken.
The step that decides it is drying the skin and salting early. Salt pulls moisture to the surface, then the refrigerator air dries it back down; roast wet skin and you get leather before you get colour. The beer-butter baste waits until the last third of cooking because beer has water in it, and water put on too early softens the skin you worked to dry. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Weggeworfen wird nichts. The neck, wing tips, and carcass go into a pot for broth after supper, and the pan juices get loosened with a splash more beer, not a jar of Bratensoße. Nicht aus dem Glas. A good bird and enough time.
The roast chicken known as Hendl became one of the defining foods of the Munich Oktoberfest in the 20th century, when specialised chicken roasters and large rotisserie stands made half chickens practical festival food at scale. Oktoberfest itself began in 1810 as the public celebration of the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria and Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen, but the modern Wiesn food table took shape later as beer tents, grills, and fairground vendors expanded. The Bavarian version stays close to beer-garden cooking: crisp roast poultry, mild spice, potato salad or pretzel alongside, while other German regions treat chicken with different herbs, sauces, or Sunday-roast trimmings.
Quantity
1, about 1.6kg
giblets removed
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
50g
melted
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
1
quartered
Quantity
1
quartered
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chickengiblets removed | 1, about 1.6kg |
| fine sea salt | 2 teaspoons |
| sweet paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| ground caraway or finely crushed caraway seed | 1/2 teaspoon |
| marjoram | 1/2 teaspoon |
| neutral oil or melted lard | 2 tablespoons |
| buttermelted | 50g |
| pale Bavarian lager or Helles | 150ml |
| small onionquartered | 1 |
| small applequartered | 1 |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon wedges (optional) | to serve |
Pat the chicken dry inside and out, then rub it all over with the salt, including under the legs and along the backbone. Set it uncovered on a rack in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours, or overnight. The salt seasons the meat while the cold air dries the skin; skip this and the oven spends its first half hour boiling off water instead of browning the bird.
Take the chicken out 30 minutes before roasting so the chill comes off the surface. Mix the paprika, pepper, caraway, marjoram, and oil, then rub it thinly over the skin. Put the onion and apple in the cavity; they perfume the bird and hold a little moisture inside without turning the skin wet outside.
Heat the oven to 180C. Put the chicken breast-side up on a rack over a roasting tin and roast for 35 minutes without basting. Leave it alone at the start because dry heat has to set the skin first; brush it too early and the beer softens what should be crisp.
Mix the melted butter with the beer. Brush the chicken lightly, turn it onto one side, and roast 15 minutes. Brush again, turn it onto the other side, and roast another 15 minutes. Turning gives the thighs and wings the same colour as the breast, which is why the festival rotisserie works so well.
Turn the chicken breast-side up again, brush once more, and raise the oven to 220C for 8 to 12 minutes, until the skin is deep golden brown with darker edges and the thigh reaches 75C at the bone. Runter mit der Temperatur when the colour is right; burnt paprika goes bitter fast.
Rest the chicken 10 minutes before carving so the juices settle back into the meat instead of running across the board. Loosen the roasting tin with a splash of beer, scrape up the browned bits, and spoon those pan juices over the carved chicken. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss: taste the juices now, then add only what they need.
1 serving (about 290g)
Culinary guides, cultural storytelling, and the editorial depth that makes cooking meaningful.
Discover Culinary Explorer
Chef Klaus
The Bavarian St. Martin goose is won in the first slow hour: render the fat gently, spoon it off, then let the skin go crisp and mahogany at the end.

Chef Klaus
Bavarian beef rolls with mustard, bacon, onion, and pickle, braised low in dark beer until the meat yields and the sauce tastes made, not bought.

Chef Klaus
A Bavarian Advent and Wirtshaus roast lives by dry skin, low heat, and patience: render the duck fat slowly, then finish hot for skin that cracks under the knife.

Chef Klaus
A Bavarian Sunday pork roast lives or dies by its Schwarte, the crackling skin: slow heat renders the fat, then cold salt water tightens the hot rind into crisp bubbles.