
Chef Isabel
Arròs a la Cassola
Catalonia's casserole rice is cooked in a cassola, not a paella pan: rabbit, chicken, and pork rib over a dark sofregit, finished juicy with a small picada.
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Arroz con almejas is Galician spoon rice: loose, briny, and built on good clams, their strained liquor, a slow sofrito, and enough stock to keep it brothy.
Arroz con almejas is Galician, from the wet Atlantic edge where the clams are not a garnish but the dish. This is not a dry Valencian paella, and it shouldn't try to be one. It is arroz caldoso, spoon rice, loose and briny, with the clam liquor carrying the sea through the pot and a broken potato giving the broth a little body.
The method that decides it is simple: open the clams gently, strain every drop of their liquor, and return the meat only at the end. Boil the clams with the rice and they go tight and rubbery. Keep them back, cook the rice in the sofrito, wine, stock, and clam liquor, and the whole pot tastes of Galicia instead of tired shellfish.
If you are far from the rias, buy the best live clams you can find, small littlenecks if that is what your fishmonger has. Manila clams work too, though they are a little sweeter and less deep. Purge them well. No hace falta haber pisado Espana, but you do need clean clams, a real fish stock, and the sense not to dry the rice out. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Arroz con almejas belongs to the Galician coast, especially the rias where clams have long been gathered from tidal flats and cooked simply with garlic, parsley, wine, and rice. The dish sits in the family of arroz caldoso, a soupy rice meant for a spoon, not the dry, crusted rice of Valencia. Breaking a potato into the pot is a northern habit that thickens the broth by rough edges of starch, a practical home-kitchen trick rather than a flourish.
Quantity
1kg
scrubbed and purged
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for purging
Quantity
250g
Quantity
1 medium, about 180g
peeled and broken into bite-size pieces
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small
finely chopped
Quantity
4 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
1, about 150g
grated
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
900ml
kept hot
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1
Quantity
small pinch
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| live clamsscrubbed and purged | 1kg |
| fine sea saltfor purging | 2 tablespoons |
| short-grain Spanish rice, such as bomba, Calasparra, or arroz redondo | 250g |
| waxy potatopeeled and broken into bite-size pieces | 1 medium, about 180g |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| green pepperfinely chopped | 1 small |
| garlicfinely chopped | 4 cloves |
| ripe tomatograted | 1, about 150g |
| dry Galician white wine, such as Albarino, or another dry white wine | 80ml |
| fish stockkept hot | 900ml |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| saffron threads (optional) | small pinch |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| salt | to taste |
Put the clams in a large bowl with 1 litre cold water and 2 tablespoons fine sea salt. Leave them 30 minutes, then lift them out by hand, leaving any sand behind. Rinse well. Throw away any clam that is cracked or stays open when tapped. Sand in the pot is the one mistake no sofrito can hide.
Put the clams in a wide pan with the white wine and 2 tablespoons of water. Cover and cook over medium-high heat just until they open, shaking the pan once or twice, about 3 to 5 minutes. Lift the clams to a bowl as they open. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve lined with kitchen paper or clean cloth, and keep it. That liquor is the sea in this dish.
Warm the olive oil in a wide cazuela or heavy pot. Add the onion, green pepper, and a pinch of salt, and cook low and slow until soft, sweet, and dark gold at the edges, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in the grated tomato and cook until thick and almost dry, 6 to 8 minutes. This is the floor of the pot; rush it and the rice tastes thin.
Add the rice, broken potato pieces, bay leaf, and saffron, if using. Stir for 1 minute so the grains are coated in the sofrito. Pour in the strained clam liquor, then add 800ml of the hot fish stock. Bring it to a steady simmer and taste before salting, because the clam liquor may already carry enough salt.
Cook uncovered at a lively but not violent simmer until the rice is tender and the potato edges have softened into the broth, 16 to 18 minutes. Stir now and then so the rice does not catch. Add the remaining 100ml hot stock if the pot tightens before the rice is done. This arroz should move when you tilt the cazuela; if it sits stiff, you have made it too dry.
Slip the clams back into the pot for the last 2 minutes, just to warm through. Discard any that never opened. Fold in the parsley, turn off the heat, and rest 3 minutes. Serve at once in shallow bowls, with plenty of broth around the rice. Tal como se hace alli, this is food for a spoon.
1 serving (about 420g)
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