Arròs Caldós de Pollastre i Conill

Arròs caldós de pollastre i conill is Valencian, the wetter cousin of the dry arroces cooked in a paella pan. This one belongs in a deep cazuela or heavy pot, with chicken, rabbit, green beans, saffron, and enough broth that the rice comes to the table loose and spoonable. Not every arroz is a paella. This is its own good thing.

The method that decides it is the base. Brown the meats well, then cook the sofrito, the slow tomato and onion base, until it darkens and goes sweet before the rice ever goes in. Rush that part and the broth tastes thin. Give it time, then add four parts hot broth to one part rice and let the grain swell into the liquid without being driven to mush.

If you can't find Valencian bomba rice, use Calasparra. Arborio will do at a pinch, but it releases more starch, so stir less and serve it the moment the grain is just tender. Rabbit is worth using here; if you can't get it, use more bone-in chicken thighs and know the dish will be rounder and less lean. No hace falta haber pisado España. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and it comes out.