
Chef Isabel
Arròs a la Cassola
Catalonia's casserole rice is cooked in a cassola, not a paella pan: rabbit, chicken, and pork rib over a dark sofregit, finished juicy with a small picada.
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Arròs brut is Mallorcan spoon rice, dark from sobrasada, liver, mushrooms, and sweet spices. It should be loose and brothy, never dry like a paella.
Arròs brut is Mallorcan, from the Balearic kitchen, and it earns its name honestly: brut means dirty, because the broth turns deep and speckled from liver, sobrasada, mushrooms, pepper, cinnamon, clove, and saffron. This is not a clean yellow rice and it is not a paella. It is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, loose enough to eat from a deep bowl.
The method that decides it is the broth before the rice goes in. Brown the meats well, cook the sofrito, the slow onion and tomato base, until it turns dark and sweet, then let the spices, sobrasada, liver, and mushrooms stain the pot. Only then add the rice. If the broth tastes thin at that point, the rice will not fix it. Rice is honest that way.
If you are far from Mallorca, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a good Spanish sobrasada if you can find it; if not, use soft cured chorizo in a small amount and know it will taste smokier and less gently sweet. For mushrooms, esclata-sangs are the Mallorcan prize, but níscalos, cremini, or oyster mushrooms will do the work. Keep it brothy, serve it at once, and don't call it dry rice. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
In the Margin beside this one I keep the warning short: rice drinks while you talk. Have everyone seated before the rice is tender, because arròs brut waits for nobody.
Arròs brut belongs to Mallorca's inland home cooking, where rice stretched the animals and vegetables a household had at hand into a generous pot for the table. Its dark colour comes from the island larder: sobrasada, chicken liver or game liver, mushrooms, and the warm spice mixture often sold as espècies d'arròs brut, with pepper, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and saffron. Older versions change with the season and the house, adding snails, game birds, artichokes, peas, or esclata-sangs when the market and the fields offer them.
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
450g
chopped into small pieces
Quantity
450g
bone-in, chopped into small pieces
Quantity
250g
cut into small pieces
Quantity
80g
trimmed
Quantity
120g
casing removed
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
3 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
250g
grated
Quantity
150g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
2
trimmed and cut into eighths
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
cleaned and sliced
Quantity
120g
fresh or frozen
Quantity
1.8 litres, plus more if needed
Quantity
350g
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small pinch
Quantity
1 small pinch
Quantity
12
lightly crushed
Quantity
10g
finely chopped
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| bone-in chicken thighs or drumstickschopped into small pieces | 450g |
| rabbitbone-in, chopped into small pieces | 450g |
| pork ribscut into small pieces | 250g |
| chicken livertrimmed | 80g |
| sobrasadacasing removed | 120g |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| green Italian frying pepperfinely chopped | 1 |
| garlicfinely chopped | 3 cloves |
| ripe tomatoesgrated | 250g |
| flat green beanscut into 3cm pieces | 150g |
| small artichokestrimmed and cut into eighths | 2 |
| frozen artichoke hearts (optional) | 150g |
| mushrooms, preferably esclata-sangs or níscaloscleaned and sliced | 150g |
| peasfresh or frozen | 120g |
| hot chicken stock | 1.8 litres, plus more if needed |
| short-grain rice, preferably bomba or Calasparra | 350g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/4 teaspoon |
| ground cloves | 1 small pinch |
| ground nutmeg | 1 small pinch |
| saffron threadslightly crushed | 12 |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 10g |
| salt | to taste |
Heat the olive oil in a wide heavy cazuela or deep pot over medium-high heat. Salt the chicken, rabbit, and pork ribs lightly, then brown them in batches until the edges are well coloured, 8 to 10 minutes per batch. Do not crowd the pot. That brown on the bones is the first broth, and without it the rice tastes flat.
Lower the heat to medium and add the onion and green pepper to the same oil, scraping up the browned bits. Cook 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is dark gold and soft. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then add the grated tomato and cook until it thickens, darkens, and the oil begins to show at the edges, another 10 minutes. This slow sofrito is where the sweetness comes from; rush it and the whole pot tastes thinner.
Push the sofrito to one side and add the chicken liver. Cook it until firm, about 3 minutes, then mash it into the sofrito with a spoon. Add the sobrasada and let it melt into the oil. Stir in the pimentón, black pepper, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, saffron, and bay leaf for 30 seconds only, just until fragrant. Pimentón burns quickly, and burnt pimentón turns bitter.
Return the browned meats and their juices to the pot. Add the green beans, artichokes, mushrooms, and hot stock. Bring to a lively simmer, then lower the heat and cook uncovered for 25 minutes, until the rabbit and pork are nearly tender and the broth is dark, glossy, and well seasoned. Taste it now. It should be a little stronger than soup, because the rice will take up salt and flavour.
Stir in the rice and peas, keeping the pot at a steady simmer. Cook 15 to 18 minutes, stirring now and then so nothing catches, until the rice is tender but still has a small bite. This is a brothy rice, not a dry arroz: add a ladle of hot stock or water if it tightens before the rice is done. The grains should move freely in the broth.
Take out the bay leaf, taste for salt, and stir in the parsley. Rest 3 minutes, no more. Ladle the arròs brut into deep bowls with pieces of chicken, rabbit, pork, mushrooms, and vegetables in each one. Serve immediately, while it is still loose enough for a spoon. If it sits, it becomes good leftovers, but it stops being the dish at its best.
1 serving (about 560g)
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