Anelletti al Forno

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •10-inch springform pan or deep 9x13-inch baking dish
• •Heavy 6-quart Dutch oven or pot
• •Large pot for cooking pasta

Instructions

1. 1

   Build the soffritto

   In a heavy pot or Dutch oven, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrot. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are completely soft and the onion is translucent with gold edges, about 15 minutes. FLAVOR, IN ITALIAN DISHES, builds up from the bottom. One can often trace the unsatisfying taste of would-be Italian dishes to the reluctance of cooks to execute this step thoroughly.

2. 2

   Brown the meat

   Add the ground beef and pork to the soffritto. Break it apart with a wooden spoon and cook over medium-high heat until the meat loses its raw color and begins to brown in spots. The meat should crumble into small, uniform pieces. This takes 10 to 12 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent large clumps from forming.

   The combination of beef and pork is traditional. Beef provides structure, pork contributes sweetness and fat. Do not use all beef; the ragù will be too lean and dry after baking.
3. 3

   Add wine and tomatoes

   Pour in the white wine. Let it bubble until the alcohol smell disappears and the pan is nearly dry, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato passata and water. Stir well, scraping any browned bits from the bottom. Season with salt and pepper. When the sauce begins to simmer, reduce heat to low. Cook uncovered for 1 hour and 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The ragù should reduce and thicken but remain loose enough to coat pasta.

   If the ragù becomes too thick during cooking, add water by the quarter cup. It will reduce further in the oven, so keep it slightly saucier than you think necessary.
4. 4

   Prepare the baking dish

   While the ragù simmers, prepare a 10-inch springform pan or a deep 9x13-inch baking dish. Use 2 tablespoons of the softened butter to coat the bottom and sides thoroughly. Mix the breadcrumbs with the Parmigiano-Reggiano and coat the buttered surfaces completely, tilting and turning the pan so the crumbs adhere everywhere. This creates the golden crust that makes the dish.

5. 5

   Cook the pasta

   Bring abundant salted water to a vigorous boil. Cook the anelletti for exactly 2 minutes less than the package directs. The pasta must be quite firm, almost unpleasantly so. It will finish cooking in the oven. If you cook it fully now, it will turn to mush. Drain the pasta, reserving one cup of pasta water. Do not rinse.

   Sicilians call this level of doneness 'molto al dente.' The pasta should offer real resistance when bitten. Trust that the oven will complete the work.
6. 6

   Combine pasta and ragù

   Transfer the drained pasta to the pot with the ragù. Add the thawed peas. Toss everything together, adding splashes of pasta water if needed to help the sauce coat every ring. The mixture should be moist but not soupy. Fold in half of the cubed caciocavallo and half of the grated primo sale. The cheese will begin to soften from the heat.

7. 7

   Assemble the timballo

   Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spoon half of the dressed pasta into the prepared pan, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Arrange the quartered eggs in a single layer over the pasta. Scatter the remaining caciocavallo cubes over the eggs. Add the rest of the pasta, pressing down firmly and smoothing the top. Sprinkle the remaining grated cheese over the surface. Dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, broken into small pieces.

8. 8

   Bake until golden

   Bake uncovered for 40 to 45 minutes. The top should be deeply golden, the edges pulling away slightly from the pan, the cheese bubbling and beginning to brown in spots. The crust around the edges will be the most prized part. Resist checking constantly; opening the oven releases heat and prevents proper browning.

9. 9

   Rest and unmold

   Remove from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes. This is not optional. The pasta needs time to set, or it will collapse when unmolded. If using a springform pan, release the sides and transfer to a serving plate. If using a baking dish, serve directly from the pan, cutting into squares. Bring the entire timballo to the table. Let everyone see it before you cut into it.

Chef Tips

• •Anelletti are small ring-shaped pasta specific to Sicily. If you cannot find them, ditali or tubetti work adequately. The rings are traditional because the sauce fills their centers, creating pockets of flavor in every bite.
• •Caciocavallo is a southern Italian cheese with a slightly tangy, sharp flavor that melts beautifully. If unavailable, use provolone (not the bland American kind) or young pecorino. Do not substitute mozzarella; it becomes stringy and releases too much moisture.
• •The hard-boiled eggs are traditional in Palermo. Some families omit them, others consider them essential. I include them because they add richness and create surprise when you cut into the timballo. You may leave them out if you prefer.
• •This dish improves when made the day before, refrigerated overnight, and reheated. The flavors meld and the structure firms. Reheat covered at 325°F for 30 minutes, then uncover for 10 minutes to re-crisp the top.

Advance Preparation

• •The ragù can be made up to three days ahead and refrigerated. It improves with time.
• •The entire assembled timballo can be refrigerated unbaked for up to 24 hours. Add 10 to 15 minutes to the baking time if baking from cold.
• •Leftover baked anelletti al forno keeps refrigerated for four days. Reheat individual portions in a 350°F oven until warmed through and the edges crisp again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 350g)