
Chef Dimitra
Athenian Besamel for Moussaka and Pastitsio (Μπεσαμέλ Αθηναϊκή)
Athens gave Greek baking this thick white crown: a cooked butter-flour sauce enriched with eggs and cheese for moussaka, pastitsio, and the Sunday pan.
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Aegean ladolemono is the quick oil-and-lemon sauce for grilled fish, boiled greens, and potatoes: cloudy when beaten hard, sharp enough to wake everything it touches on the plate.
Aegean Islands ladolemono is olive oil and lemon beaten into a cloudy green-gold sauce, the thing a grilled fish waits for before anyone lifts a fork. In the Cyclades and across the Aegean fish table, it is not decoration. It is the final seasoning: sharp lemon, good oil, salt, and sometimes a pinch of rigani (Greek oregano) if the grill has left its mark.
The method is small and it matters. Dissolve the salt in the lemon first, then whisk in the oil hard and gradually until the sauce turns opaque. Oil and lemon want to separate; you make them stay together for the few minutes dinner needs. If it splits, shake it again. No tragedy.
I use it on sea bream, boiled horta, chickpeas, potatoes, and grilled vegetables, especially on the fasting table where oil and lemon carry more than people admit. This is λίγα και καλά (liga kai kala): a few things, and good ones. Your grandmother cooked it by eye because she'd made it a thousand times. Here are the numbers until you have.
Ladolemono is named by its ingredients: ladi (λάδι, oil) and lemoni (λεμόνι, lemon). It belongs especially to the island and coastal fish table of the Aegean, where grilled seafood, boiled greens, potatoes, and pulses are finished after cooking rather than covered by a cooked sauce. Its importance also comes from the Orthodox fasting calendar: on the many nistisima meals where oil is permitted, lemon, herbs, vegetables, and pulses could make dinner without meat or dairy.
Quantity
60ml
strained, from about 2 medium lemons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon (about 3g)
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
crushed between your fingers
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh lemon juicestrained, from about 2 medium lemons | 60ml |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon (about 3g) |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 120ml |
| dried Greek oregano (rigani) (optional)crushed between your fingers | 1/2 teaspoon |
Juice the lemons, strain out seeds and heavy pulp, and measure 60ml. Stir the salt into the lemon juice until the grains disappear. Salt dissolves in lemon, not in oil, so do this before the olive oil goes in.
Set the bowl on a damp cloth so it doesn't slide. Whisk the lemon with one hand and pour in the olive oil in a thin stream with the other, keeping the whisk moving until the sauce turns cloudy and slightly thick, pale yellow-green. This is the whole trick: oil and lemon separate unless you break the oil into small drops, so add oil to lemon and whisk hard. A lidded jar works too; shake it hard for 20 seconds.
If using rigani, rub it between your fingers over the sauce and stir once. Taste the ladolemono with a piece of bread, a potato, or a leaf of horta, not by sipping from the spoon. It should taste sharper than a salad dressing; the food will soften it.
Spoon over grilled fish, boiled greens, boiled potatoes, chickpeas, or grilled vegetables while the food is hot or warm. Do not boil ladolemono in the pan. It is the finish, the bright last thing, and it loses its clean edge if you cook it.
1 serving (about 44g)
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