
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Islands Ladolemono (Λαδολέμονο)
Aegean ladolemono is the quick oil-and-lemon sauce for grilled fish, boiled greens, and potatoes: cloudy when beaten hard, sharp enough to wake everything it touches on the plate.
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Athenian saltsa kima is minced beef, tomato, cinnamon, and allspice, cooked slowly until the sauce tightens and the green-gold oil pools at the top.
Athenian saltsa kima is the minced meat sauce of the urban Sunday table, the one that goes over makaronia, between pastitsio layers, and under moussaka. What makes it Greek is not simply tomato and meat. It is the quiet sweetness of cinnamon and allspice, the bay leaf, and the patience to cook it down until the oil rises red at the edges.
The method that decides it is evaporation. You don't want a loose tomato sauce with meat floating in it. You brown the mince properly, add wine, tomato, and spices, then simmer uncovered until the sauce thickens and the fat separates. That is when the flavor settles into the meat instead of washing around it.
Make it once and you'll understand why Greek homes keep a container of it in the fridge. It is supper in ten minutes with pasta, and the beginning of two great baked dishes. My mother Sofia kept it plain and exact, because a good saltsa kima should be ready for the table today and the tapsi tomorrow. A recipe written down is a recipe saved.
Saltsa kima belongs to the 20th-century urban kitchens of Athens and Thessaloniki, where pasta with minced meat became a regular family meal and the same sauce was used for pastitsio and moussaka. Its cinnamon, allspice, and bay show the older Greek taste for sweet spices carried through Constantinopolitan and Asia-Minor cooking, while tomato became common in Greek household sauces only after the 19th century. The sauce is often compared to Italian ragù, but the spice profile and the way it supports baked Greek dishes make it its own thing.
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
2
minced
Quantity
800g
10 to 15 percent fat
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
700g
Quantity
30g
Quantity
2
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
120ml
only if needed during simmering
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 60ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| garlic clovesminced | 2 |
| minced beef (kimas)10 to 15 percent fat | 800g |
| dry red wine | 120ml |
| crushed ripe tomatoes or passata | 700g |
| tomato paste | 30g |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| ground allspice | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| water (optional)only if needed during simmering | 120ml |
Warm the olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of the salt and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until soft and pale gold, not brown. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, just until it smells sweet.
Add the minced beef and break it up with a wooden spoon. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring and pressing, until its liquid has boiled away and the meat begins to catch lightly on the bottom. This browning gives the sauce its backbone. If you rush it, the kima tastes boiled.
Pour in the red wine and scrape the bottom of the pot. Let it bubble for 3 to 4 minutes, until the sharp smell of alcohol is gone and the liquid is nearly cooked away.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the crushed tomatoes, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, allspice, cloves, remaining salt, and pepper. Bring the sauce to a low boil, then lower the heat until it murmurs steadily.
Simmer uncovered for 40 to 50 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce is thick, glossy, and the oil gathers in small red pools at the surface. Add a splash of water only if it threatens to stick before the meat has softened.
Remove the bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Taste for salt, then let the sauce rest off the heat for 10 minutes. For pasta, loosen with a spoonful of pasta water. For pastitsio or moussaka, keep it thick so the layers hold cleanly.
1 serving (about 250g)
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