Wheat Berry Salad with Dried Cherries

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot for cooking grains
• •Dry skillet for toasting nuts
• •Jar with tight-fitting lid or medium bowl and whisk
• •Large mixing bowl

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the wheat berries

   Rinse the wheat berries under cold water, picking out any debris. Combine them in a large pot with six cups of water and a generous pinch of salt. The water should taste like mild seawater. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook uncovered for 45 minutes to one hour, until the grains are tender with pleasant chew. They should yield to the tooth but not turn mushy. Think al dente pasta, not porridge.

   Hard winter wheat berries take longer than soft varieties. If your package doesn't specify, assume hard and plan for the full hour. Undercooked wheat berries are unpleasant. Better to err on the side of tender.
2. 2

   Toast the pecans

   While the wheat berries simmer, spread the pecans in a single layer on a dry skillet. Set over medium heat and toast, shaking the pan frequently, until fragrant and a shade darker. This takes four to five minutes. The moment you smell that rich, buttery aroma, pull them from the heat. Pecans go from perfect to scorched with astonishing speed. Let them cool completely before chopping roughly.

3. 3

   Build the vinaigrette

   In a jar with a tight-fitting lid or a medium bowl, combine the apple cider vinegar, Dijon mustard, minced shallot, honey, salt, and pepper. Let this sit for five minutes. The shallot will soften slightly and the mustard will begin its work as an emulsifier. The proteins in mustard act as a bridge between oil and vinegar, creating a stable, creamy dressing that clings to the grains rather than pooling at the bottom of the bowl.

   Dijon is essential here, not for its flavor alone, but for its emulsifying power. Yellow ballpark mustard lacks the same binding capacity and will leave you with a broken dressing.
4. 4

   Emulsify the dressing

   If using a jar, add the olive oil and shake vigorously for thirty seconds until the dressing turns creamy and uniform. If using a bowl, add the oil in a slow, steady stream while whisking constantly, creating a vortex that draws the oil into the acid. The finished dressing should coat a spoon lightly and look thick enough to cling. Taste it. Adjust salt and pepper. The acid should be bright but not aggressive.

   A broken vinaigrette has a slick of oil floating on top. If yours separates, pour it into a blender and pulse twice. The mechanical action will re-emulsify it instantly.
5. 5

   Drain and dress the grains

   When the wheat berries are cooked, drain them thoroughly and spread on a rimmed baking sheet to cool for ten minutes. You want them warm, not hot. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and add two-thirds of the vinaigrette while the grains still hold some warmth. Warm grains absorb dressing better than cold ones. Toss well and let sit for at least fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally.

6. 6

   Plump the cherries

   Place the dried cherries in a small bowl and pour over enough warm water to cover. Let them sit for ten minutes while the wheat berries absorb their dressing. Drain the cherries well and pat dry. This step is optional but worthwhile. Plumped cherries are tender and juicy rather than leathery. They become little bursts of tart sweetness in every bite.

7. 7

   Assemble the salad

   Add the plumped cherries, toasted pecans, sliced scallions, diced celery, parsley, and mint to the dressed wheat berries. Toss gently but thoroughly, ensuring every grain gets coated and every ingredient distributes evenly. Add the remaining vinaigrette if the salad looks dry. Grain salads drink up dressing, especially as they sit.

8. 8

   Rest and finish

   Let the salad rest at room temperature for at least thirty minutes before serving. This is not optional. The flavors need time to marry, the grains to absorb the dressing fully, the herbs to release their oils into the whole. Just before serving, scatter the crumbled goat cheese over the top. Taste again for seasoning. A final crack of black pepper and perhaps a drizzle of good olive oil will make it shine.

   This salad improves dramatically overnight. The difference between freshly made and next-day is the difference between good and memorable. Plan accordingly.

Chef Tips

• •Look for wheat berries at natural food stores or in the bulk bins. Hard winter wheat berries have more protein and better chew than soft varieties. Either works, but hard is preferable.
• •The dressing must be emulsified, not merely mixed. A broken vinaigrette will slide off the grains and pool at the bottom. The mustard does the work, but you must add the oil slowly while whisking constantly.
• •Make this salad the night before you need it. The wheat berries will absorb the dressing and the flavors will deepen. Add a splash more vinaigrette and the herbs just before serving to brighten it back up.
• •For a heartier meal, add shredded rotisserie chicken or leftover roasted turkey. The salad takes well to additions without losing its character.

Advance Preparation

• •Wheat berries can be cooked up to 5 days ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before dressing.
• •Vinaigrette keeps refrigerated for 2 weeks. Shake vigorously before using as it may separate.
• •Fully assembled salad (without goat cheese) improves overnight and keeps well for 3 days refrigerated. Add cheese just before serving.
• •Pecans can be toasted up to 1 week ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 130g)