
Chef Ally
Artichokes Braised in Olive Oil
Tender baby artichokes surrendered to good olive oil, garlic, and lemon, cooked low and slow until the leaves soften and the hearts turn silky. A dish that asks you to slow down.
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Tender waxy potatoes dressed while still warm so they absorb every drop of mustardy vinaigrette, layered with briny capers, showered with soft herbs, and crowned with shallots fried until golden and impossibly crisp.
The secret to this salad is timing. Potatoes must be dressed while they are warm, almost too hot to handle. Cold potatoes sit in their vinaigrette like strangers. Warm potatoes absorb it completely, becoming something richer than either ingredient alone.
Find waxy potatoes at the farmers' market. Fingerlings with their thin skins and buttery flesh are ideal. New potatoes, freshly dug and still wearing traces of soil, work beautifully. Ask your farmer what they would use. They know their crop. They will tell you which variety holds its shape and which turns to mush.
The vinaigrette is simple. Good Dijon, white wine vinegar, olive oil. Nothing more. The capers bring brininess. The herbs bring life. And the crispy shallots on top, golden and shattering, bring texture that makes every bite interesting. This is a salad for a long table, a potluck, a picnic where people linger. It gets better as it sits, though it rarely lasts that long.
Quantity
2 pounds
fingerlings, new potatoes, or Yukon Gold
Quantity
for cooking water
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 small
minced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
Quantity
3 tablespoons
drained
Quantity
1/4 cup
roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
snipped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 medium
sliced into thin rings
Quantity
1/4 cup
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small waxy potatoesfingerlings, new potatoes, or Yukon Gold | 2 pounds |
| kosher salt | for cooking water |
| good white wine vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| shallot (for vinaigrette)minced | 1 small |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 1/2 cup |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
| capersdrained | 3 tablespoons |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 1/4 cup |
| fresh chivessnipped | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh tarragon leaves | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh dill fronds | 2 tablespoons |
| shallots (for frying)sliced into thin rings | 3 medium |
| neutral oilfor frying | 1/4 cup |
Start at the market. You want waxy potatoes, the kind that hold their shape when sliced. Fingerlings are ideal. New potatoes work beautifully. Yukon Golds will do if that is what your farmer has. Avoid russets entirely. They will fall apart and turn to mush the moment you dress them.
Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water by two inches. Add a generous handful of kosher salt. The water should taste like the sea. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until a knife slides through without resistance but the potato does not crumble, fifteen to twenty-five minutes depending on size. Do not rush this.
While potatoes cook, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and minced shallot in a large serving bowl. Let this sit for five minutes. The shallot softens and the flavors marry. Stream in the olive oil slowly, whisking constantly until the dressing emulsifies and thickens slightly. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. Adjust. The dressing should be bright and assertive.
Heat the neutral oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot rings in a single layer, separating them with a fork. Fry until golden and crisp, stirring occasionally, about five to seven minutes. They will continue to darken off heat, so pull them while still pale gold. Transfer to a paper towel and sprinkle with a pinch of salt.
Drain the potatoes and let them rest just until you can handle them, no more than two or three minutes. Slice them into thick rounds while they are still warm. This is not negotiable. Warm potatoes drink up the vinaigrette in a way cold ones never will. The starch is still receptive, the cells still open.
Add the warm potato slices directly to the bowl with the vinaigrette. Toss gently with your hands or a soft spatula, coating every surface. The potatoes will absorb the dressing and become glossy and flavorful rather than sitting in a puddle. Let them rest for five minutes.
Scatter the capers over the potatoes. Add the parsley, chives, tarragon, and dill. Toss once more, gently, just to distribute. The herbs should look abundant, not sparse. Taste a potato. Adjust salt if needed. The vinegar may need a touch more to balance the starch.
Transfer to a serving platter if you like, or bring it to the table in the bowl you dressed it in. Scatter the crispy shallots over the top just before serving so they stay crunchy. Serve warm or at room temperature. This salad is alive when it is warm. Do not refrigerate it.
1 serving (about 185g)
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