
Chef Ally
Arugula with Shaved Pecorino and Lemon
Peppery arugula leaves tossed in nothing but fresh lemon and good olive oil, showered with curls of aged pecorino. A salad that proves the best cooking is knowing when to get out of the way.
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A round of fresh goat cheese, breaded with herbs and baked until just warm, set atop a tumble of garden greens dressed in walnut vinaigrette. Simple. Perfect. The salad that taught a generation to trust the ingredient.
This salad is about restraint. It asks you to find the best greens at the market, source goat cheese from someone who cares about their animals, and then do almost nothing to either.
I first served something like this in the early years of Chez Panisse, when we were still learning what California cooking could be. The idea came from France, where warm chèvre salads appear in bistros everywhere, but the execution was ours: local greens picked that morning, cheese from a neighbor's goats, walnuts from the orchard down the road. People thought we were being precious. We were simply paying attention.
The technique is minimal. You bread the cheese, warm it in the oven, dress the greens at the last possible moment, and bring it to the table. That is all. But everything depends on the quality of what you start with. Tired greens from a plastic clamshell will never taste like lettuces cut an hour ago. Industrial goat cheese will never have the tang and sweetness of cheese made by hand. Your choices shape the food system. They also shape this salad.
Find a farmer who grows salad greens. Ask about their goat cheese. Let things taste of what they are.
Quantity
1 log (8 ounces)
well chilled
Quantity
1 cup
from day-old country bread
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons, divided
Quantity
8 cups
young lettuces, arugula, frisée
Quantity
1/2 cup
lightly toasted
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small
minced fine
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh goat cheesewell chilled | 1 log (8 ounces) |
| fresh breadcrumbsfrom day-old country bread | 1 cup |
| fresh thyme leaves | 2 tablespoons |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, divided |
| mixed garden greensyoung lettuces, arugula, frisée | 8 cups |
| walnut halveslightly toasted | 1/2 cup |
| walnut oil | 2 tablespoons |
| sherry vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| Dijon mustard | 1/2 teaspoon |
| shallotminced fine | 1 small |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
The greens matter here as much as the cheese. Look for young lettuces with tender leaves, a handful of peppery arugula, some frisée for texture. They should look alive, not tired. Wash gently in cold water and spin completely dry. Wet leaves cannot hold a vinaigrette.
Tear day-old country bread into rough pieces and pulse in a food processor until you have coarse crumbs. Mix with the thyme leaves and one tablespoon of olive oil, working with your fingers until the crumbs are evenly coated. Fresh breadcrumbs toast golden and stay tender inside. The ones from a canister taste like cardboard.
Cut the chilled goat cheese log into four equal rounds, about one inch thick. Work with a sharp knife dipped in hot water between cuts to keep the edges clean. Press each round gently into the herbed breadcrumbs, coating all surfaces. The cheese must be cold or it will not hold its shape.
Whisk together the shallot, sherry vinegar, mustard, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let it sit for five minutes so the shallot softens. Slowly drizzle in the walnut oil and remaining two tablespoons of olive oil, whisking constantly until emulsified. Taste. Adjust. It should be bright but not sharp, nutty but not heavy.
Spread walnuts in a single layer on a small baking sheet. Toast in a 375°F oven for six to eight minutes, watching carefully. They are ready when fragrant and slightly darkened. Walnuts go from perfect to burnt in seconds. Let them cool, then break any large pieces in half.
Place the breaded cheese rounds on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake at 375°F for six to eight minutes, until the breadcrumbs are golden and the cheese is just softening at the edges but still holds its shape. You want it warm through, not melting into a puddle. The center should give slightly when pressed.
This salad must be dressed moments before serving. Toss the greens with just enough vinaigrette to coat each leaf lightly, using your hands so you can feel when the leaves are dressed but not drowning. Divide among four plates, scatter the toasted walnuts, and set a warm cheese round on top of each. Finish with a few flakes of sea salt and a grind of black pepper. Serve immediately.
1 serving (about 150g)
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