Varenyky z Makom (вареники з маком, poppy-seed dumplings)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •A poppy-seed grinder, spice grinder, or food processor
• •A fine sieve or clean cloth for draining
• •An 8cm round cutter or drinking glass
• •A wide pot for boiling

Instructions

1. 1

   Scald the poppy

   Put the poppy seeds in a small saucepan with the milk or water and bring them just to a tremble, then pull the pan off the heat and cover it. Let the seeds swell until they look less like dry sand and more like wet slate, heavy and fragrant. Drain very well through a fine sieve or cloth; a watery filling will burst your dumplings.

   Scalding is not fuss. It softens the seed and takes the raw edge away before grinding.
2. 2

   Make the dough

   Stir the flour and salt together, then pour in the just-boiled water and oil. Mix with a spoon until it clumps, then knead by hand once it is cool enough to touch. The dough should become smooth, warm, and elastic, like an earlobe. Cover it and let it rest while you finish the filling.

3. 3

   Grind the filling

   Grind the drained poppy in a poppy-seed grinder, spice grinder, mortar, or food processor until it darkens, clumps, and shows pale milky streaks at the edges. Add the honey, raisins, sugar if you want it sweeter, lemon zest if you like a brighter holiday smell, and a pinch of salt. Taste it. It should be sweet, nutty, and thick enough to mound on a spoon without running.

   Whole poppy seeds pass through the teeth like grit. Broken poppy gives flavor. Grind until the smell changes.
4. 4

   Roll and cut

   Dust the table lightly and roll the rested dough thin enough that you can see the shadow of your fingers through it. Cut rounds about 8cm wide. Keep the scraps covered while you work so they don't dry into leather.

5. 5

   Fill and seal

   Place a small teaspoon of poppy filling in the center of each round. Fold, press the air out, and seal the edge firmly with dry fingers. Half-moons are honest; triangles are my family habit. If a seam looks doubtful, pinch it again. Butter forgives many things, but boiling water does not forgive a lazy seal.

6. 6

   Boil gently

   Bring a wide pot of salted water to a lively boil, then lower the dumplings in batches and stir once so they don't catch on the bottom. When they float, give them a little longer, until the dough looks tender and slightly translucent at the seam. Lift them out with a slotted spoon; don't dump them into a colander and bruise all that work.

7. 7

   Butter and serve

   Slide the hot varenyky into a wide bowl with the butter and turn them gently until they shine. Serve with smetana on the side and a little extra honey if your table has a sweet tooth. They should sit close together, glossy and generous, enough for eight guests or one hungry Ukrainian.

Chef Tips

• •A proper poppy-seed grinder gives the creamiest filling. A spice grinder works in small batches; a food processor is more modern and a bit coarser, but it will still get supper on the table.
• •Drain the scalded poppy harder than feels polite. Wet filling is the thing that ruins the seal.
• •The dough forgives rerolling once. After that it gets tough, so keep scraps covered and work without panic.
• •For Christmas Eve, serve these after the savory dishes, with honey and smetana. For an ordinary winter Sunday, fried leftovers in butter are a very good argument for making too many.

Advance Preparation

• •The filling can be made 2 days ahead and kept covered in the fridge. Bring it back to room temperature before filling so it spreads softly.
• •Shaped uncooked varenyky freeze well on a floured tray, then can be bagged. Boil from frozen, giving them a little more time after they float.
• •Cooked varenyky keep 2 days in the fridge, buttered so they don't stick. Rewarm gently in a covered pan with a knob of butter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 160g)