
Chef Margarida
Aletria
The Christmas twin of arroz doce, where angel hair pasta meets warm milk, golden egg yolks, and cinnamon. Convent sweetness born from surplus yolks, humble magic from grandmother's kitchen.
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The convent cake they call Bacon from Heaven, dense with almonds and golden egg yolks, born from surplus and piety, still the richest slice on any Portuguese table
Toucinho do céu. Bacon from Heaven. The name makes everyone laugh the first time they hear it. Then they taste it and understand.
This cake was born in convents, like so many Portuguese sweets. The nuns used egg whites to clarify wine and starch communion wafers, leaving mountains of yolks with no purpose. Waste nothing, that was the rule. So they invented an entire tradition of doçaria conventual, convent sweets, built on yolks and sugar and whatever else the land provided. In this case: almonds. And originally, toucinho, pork fat, which gave the cake its unholy name and its impossibly tender crumb.
Avó Leonor made this for feast days. Christmas. Easter. Saints' days that mattered to our family. She used butter instead of lard, como quase toda a gente agora, like almost everyone does now. But she'd tell me the name while slicing it thin, because this is a rich cake and a little goes far. "They called it bacon from heaven because the lard made it so tender. And because the nuns had a sense of humor."
The sugar syrup is the part that scares people. Ponto de estrada, the thread stage. It sounds technical. But generations of nuns without thermometers got it right by watching, by testing drops between their fingers. You learn the feel of it. The moment when sugar stops being liquid and starts becoming something else. This is the heart of Portuguese confeitaria. Master the sugar point and you can make anything.
At Mesa da Avó, I serve this with nothing. No cream, no fruit, no accompaniment. It doesn't need anything. Just a thin slice, a cup of strong coffee, and the understanding that you're eating something the nuns perfected over centuries of patient sweetness.
Toucinho do céu originated in the Convento de Santa Clara in Guimarães during the 15th or 16th century. The original recipe used rendered pork fat (toucinho), which created the tender texture and inspired the paradoxical name. When convents were dissolved in 1834, their recipes passed to local confeitarias, and butter gradually replaced lard in most versions.
Quantity
300g
finely ground
Quantity
400g
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
12 large
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
50g
softened, plus more for pan
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
zested
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| blanched almondsfinely ground | 300g |
| granulated sugar | 400g |
| water | 150ml |
| egg yolks | 12 large |
| whole eggs | 2 large |
| unsalted buttersoftened, plus more for pan | 50g |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| lemonzested | 1 |
| powdered sugar (optional) | for dusting |
Butter a 24cm round cake pan generously. Line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper too. Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F). This cake sticks if you're careless. Don't be careless.
Combine the sugar and water in a heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves completely. Stop stirring once it boils. Let it cook until it reaches ponto de estrada, the thread stage, about 110°C (230°F). A drop between your fingers should form a thread that breaks when stretched. This takes 8 to 10 minutes. Watch it. Sugar doesn't wait.
While the syrup cooks, spread the ground almonds in a dry skillet over low heat. Toast gently, stirring constantly, until fragrant and barely golden, about 5 minutes. The almonds should smell like heaven but not brown. This step releases their oils and deepens the flavor. Set aside to cool slightly.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and whole eggs until smooth and slightly pale. Remove the sugar syrup from heat and let it cool for 2 minutes. Then pour it slowly, in a thin stream, into the eggs while whisking constantly. Go slow. You're tempering, not scrambling. The mixture should become thick and glossy, like liquid gold.
Add the softened butter to the egg mixture and whisk until incorporated. Fold in the ground almonds, cinnamon, and lemon zest. The batter will be thick and fragrant. Don't overmix once the almonds go in. You want it blended, not worked to death.
Pour the batter into your prepared pan. Smooth the top gently. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is deep golden and a skewer comes out with just a few moist crumbs. The center should still have the slightest wobble when you shake the pan. It will set as it cools. Overbaked toucinho do céu is a tragedy.
Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the edge and invert onto a wire rack. Peel away the parchment while still warm. Cool completely before slicing. This cake is dense. It slices thin. Dust with powdered sugar just before serving, if you like. Avó Leonor always did.
1 serving (about 85g)
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