
Chef Isabel
Acedías Fritas de Cádiz
Acedías fritas belong to Cádiz: tiny wedge sole, salted, dusted in frying flour, and dropped into very hot olive oil so the rims crisp while the fish stays tender.
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Tortillitas de bacalao are Cádiz's flat salt cod fritters: desalted fish, chickpea flour, wheat flour, parsley, and hot oil, spooned thin so the edges fry crisp and lacy.
Tortillitas de bacalao are Gaditanas, from Cádiz, and they are not little cod doughnuts. That would be buñuelos. These are flat, thin fritters, made with desalted bacalao, parsley, a little garlic and spring onion, and a batter of chickpea flour and wheat flour that fries into lacy golden edges.
The method that decides them is the thickness. The batter must pour from the spoon, not sit there like paste. Spoon it into properly hot oil and spread it thin with the back of the spoon, so the cod flakes sit in a crisp web instead of a heavy cake. Too thick, and you get a soft middle with tired edges. Thin is the dish.
If you're far from Cádiz, no hace falta haber pisado España. Buy true salt cod and desalt it slowly in the fridge, or use frozen desalted bacalao if that's what your market has. Fresh cod salted for an hour will do in a pinch, but it tastes gentler and flakes softer, so don't pretend it's the same. It will still make a good fritter.
Rest the batter, fry in small batches, and eat them as they come from the pan with a squeeze of lemon if you like. Siempre sale, si lo sigues. In the Margin beside this one I wrote only this: thinner than you think.
Tortillitas belong to the frying culture of Cádiz and the Bay of Cádiz, where chickpea flour is used for thin fritters cooked quickly in olive oil. The better-known tortillitas de camarones use tiny local shrimp, but bacalao has long had its place in Andalusian home cooking, especially through Lent and Holy Week, when salted fish filled the space left by meat. The name matters: tortillita here means a thin fried round of batter, not an egg tortilla.
Quantity
250g
desalted for 24 hours, skin and bones removed
Quantity
80g
Quantity
70g
Quantity
300ml, plus 2 tablespoons if needed
Quantity
2
very finely chopped
Quantity
1 small clove
finely grated
Quantity
15g
finely chopped
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
only if needed after tasting the cod
Quantity
for shallow frying
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| salt coddesalted for 24 hours, skin and bones removed | 250g |
| chickpea flour | 80g |
| plain wheat flour | 70g |
| very cold water | 300ml, plus 2 tablespoons if needed |
| spring onionsvery finely chopped | 2 |
| garlicfinely grated | 1 small clove |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 15g |
| sweet pimentón | 1/2 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine salt (optional)only if needed after tasting the cod | 1/4 teaspoon |
| olive oil or mild olive oil | for shallow frying |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges | 1 |
Put the salt cod in a bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water 3 times. Taste a tiny cooked flake if you're unsure; it should taste seasoned, not harshly salty. Drain it well, pat it dry, and pull it into small flakes, checking for bones with your fingers.
Whisk the chickpea flour, wheat flour, pimentón, and baking powder in a bowl. Pour in 300ml very cold water little by little, whisking until smooth. The batter should be thinner than pancake batter, loose enough to run from a spoon. Pésalo, no lo adivines; the flour balance is what gives you crisp edges without heaviness.
Stir in the flaked bacalao, spring onion, garlic, and parsley. Rest the batter for 20 to 30 minutes in the fridge. Taste the batter only after the cod has gone in; salt cod varies, and most batches need little or no added salt.
Pour 1cm of olive oil into a wide frying pan and heat to 180C. If you don't have a thermometer, drop in a little batter; it should sizzle at once and float, not sink and soak. Stir the batter before each batch because the flour settles.
Spoon 2 tablespoons of batter into the oil for each tortillita and nudge it thin with the back of the spoon. Fry 2 to 3 minutes, turning once, until the edges are lacy and deep golden and the centre is set. Do not crowd the pan, or the oil cools and the fritters drink it.
Lift the tortillitas onto a rack or paper-lined tray and give them a minute to settle. Serve them hot, with lemon wedges if you like, though they don't need much. They should crackle at the edge and stay tender where the cod sits.
1 serving (about 32g)
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