Bacaladillas Fritas Andaluzas

Bacaladillas fritas are coastal Andalucía's, the little blue whiting that ends up in a heap on the table because it is cheap, sweet-fleshed, and made for the frying pan. What makes them this dish is not a batter or a sauce. It is small whole fish, salt, a dusting of harina de freír, frying flour, and olive oil hot enough to crisp the edges before the thin flesh dries.

Here the method is almost rude in its simplicity, which is why people ruin it by adding things. Dry the fish well, flour it at the last moment, shake it until it looks nearly underdressed, and fry in small batches. Wet fish makes paste. Too much flour makes a coat. Crowded oil drops cold and the bacaladilla drinks it. That's the one thing to get right.

Far from Málaga or Cádiz, look for small whiting first, then small hake or smelt if that is what your fishmonger has. Smelt is oilier and cooks faster; small hake is a little thicker and needs another minute. No hace falta haber pisado España. Keep the fish small and fresh, keep the oil at 180C, and serve it as soon as it leaves the pan.

One note in my Margin beside this one: do not flour early. The salt pulls water and the flour turns gummy while you lay the table. Fish first, table second this time.