
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Epirus gives tiropita its surname: feta beaten with egg until creamy, tucked between buttered phyllo sheets, baked in a tapsi until the top is crisp and golden.
Tiropita Ipeirou belongs to Epirus, the mountain region where a pita can be dinner, breakfast, and a slice wrapped for the road. This is feta and egg between buttered phyllo, baked in a shallow tapsi until the top turns crisp and the filling settles into a gentle custard.
The one method is the filling. Crumble the feta, then beat the eggs in until the cheese looks wet and creamy, not scattered with separate bits of yolk. In the oven, that egg binds the salt and crumb of the feta into one soft layer. Leave it half-mixed and you get dry pockets of cheese under beautiful phyllo, a pity after all that buttering.
Let it rest before you cut. Warm tiropita slices cleanly, travels well, and tastes even better at room temperature, which is why every Epirote kitchen understands its usefulness. I keep this one plain on purpose: good feta, good phyllo, good olive oil, and patience. The region is the dish's surname.
Tiropita is made across Greece, but Epirus is one of the country's great pie regions, where pites filled with cheese, greens, trahana, or pumpkin were everyday food shaped by mountain herding and small household ovens. Before built-in ovens were common in the twentieth century, many Epirote pites were baked in a tapsi under a gastra, a domed metal lid covered with embers. The plain cheese filling reflects a pastoral kitchen: brined feta, eggs when the hens were laying, and phyllo stretched far enough to feed a table.
Quantity
450g
thawed if frozen, about 12 to 14 sheets
Quantity
600g
crumbled
Quantity
4
Quantity
180ml
Quantity
120g
melted
Quantity
40ml
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| phyllo pastry (fyllo)thawed if frozen, about 12 to 14 sheets | 450g |
| Greek fetacrumbled | 600g |
| large eggs | 4 |
| whole milk | 180ml |
| unsalted buttermelted | 120g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 40ml |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sesame seeds (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Set a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat to 190°C, 375°F, or 175°C fan. Brush a 34cm round tapsi, or a 23 x 33cm baking pan, with a little of the melted butter and olive oil. Keep the phyllo sealed until the filling is ready, then work without wandering off.
Crumble the feta into a bowl in pieces no larger than peas. Whisk the eggs, milk, and black pepper until even, then pour them over the feta and beat with a fork until the cheese looks wet and creamy, with small curds still visible. This is the step that decides the pie: the egg has to surround the feta so it bakes into a tender custard, not separate dry crumbs.
Mix the remaining melted butter with the olive oil. Lay one phyllo sheet in the pan and brush it lightly, letting the edges climb the sides. Lay the next sheet at a slight angle and brush again. Continue with half the phyllo, brushing each sheet. Let the wrinkles stay where they fall; those folds bake crisp.
Spread the cheese filling evenly over the phyllo base. Fold the overhanging edges over the filling, brushing them as you go. Lay the remaining phyllo sheets on top one by one, brushing each with the butter and oil, then tuck the edges down around the inside of the pan. A neat pie is pleasant. A sealed pie is the point.
Score the top into 8 or 10 pieces, cutting through the top sheets but not dragging through the filling. Sprinkle with sesame seeds if using. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is deep gold, the edges pull from the pan, and the underside is colored when you lift a corner with a spatula. If the top colors too quickly, cover it loosely with foil for the last 10 minutes.
Let the tiropita rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting through the score lines. Straight from the oven, the filling is loose and the phyllo crushes under the knife. Warm or room temperature is better: the cheese settles, the pieces lift cleanly, and the pie is ready for the table or a picnic.
1 serving (about 180g)
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