
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Taramosalata (Ταραμοσαλάτα)
Pale Aegean taramosalata is cured roe, soaked bread, lemon, and olive oil worked slowly until it turns thick and clean, made for lagana on Clean Monday.
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Thessaloniki's tirokafteri is feta beaten with roasted Florina pepper, chilli, yogurt, and olive oil until thick, salty, and hot enough to wake the whole table.
Thessaloniki tirokafteri, also called htipiti in the north, is the fiery whipped feta of Macedonia: salty cheese, roasted sweet Florina pepper, hot chilli, and good olive oil beaten into a thick meze. The region is the dish's surname. Here the heat is not decoration. It belongs to the cheese.
The method that decides it is simple: roast the pepper, peel it, and dry it well before it meets the feta. Florina pepper gives sweetness and red color, but its water can ruin the texture. You want a spoonable spread that holds ridges, not a loose pink dip running across the plate.
I keep the yogurt modest, just enough to soften the feta without dulling it. Serve it with grilled bread at a table that also has olives, tomatoes in season, and something from the coals. Λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones.
Tirokafteri means hot cheese, while htipiti means beaten, a name that points to the older hand-worked texture before electric blenders made it smooth. The northern version is strongly tied to Macedonia and Thessaloniki, where roasted Florina peppers from western Macedonia are often beaten into feta with chilli. Florina peppers received Greek protected designation status in 1994, and their sweet red flesh is one reason the northern dip tastes different from the sharper island versions made with only cheese, oil, vinegar, and hot pepper.
Quantity
300g
drained and crumbled
Quantity
120g
peeled, seeded, and patted dry
Quantity
60g
Quantity
1 small
seeded for milder heat and finely chopped
Quantity
45ml
plus more for serving
Quantity
10ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Greek fetadrained and crumbled | 300g |
| roasted Florina pepperspeeled, seeded, and patted dry | 120g |
| strained Greek yogurt | 60g |
| hot red chilliseeded for milder heat and finely chopped | 1 small |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilplus more for serving | 45ml |
| red wine vinegar | 10ml |
| lemon juice | 1 teaspoon |
| hot boukovo or chilli flakes (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| dried Greek oregano | 1/4 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
If your Florina peppers are not already roasted, blister them over a gas flame or under a hot grill until the skins blacken in patches. Cover for 10 minutes, then peel, seed, and pat them dry. Water is the enemy here. A wet pepper loosens the feta and gives you a pink sauce instead of a spread that holds the spoon.
Put the crumbled feta, yogurt, vinegar, lemon juice, oregano, and black pepper in a food processor. Pulse until rough and creamy, scraping once. It should still taste like feta, salty and direct, not like a dairy cream.
Add the roasted Florina pepper and chopped chilli. Pulse in short bursts until the dip turns pale coral and thick, with small red flecks still visible. Don't run the machine until it becomes completely smooth. Htipiti means beaten, not punished.
With the machine running in short pulses, add the olive oil a little at a time. Taste before adding boukovo. Some chillies are polite and some arrive with relatives.
Spoon the tirokafteri into a shallow bowl, cover, and chill for at least 30 minutes so the salt, pepper, and heat settle together. Serve cool, not icy, with a small pool of olive oil on top and warm pita, grilled bread, or raw vegetables.
1 serving (about 95g)
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