
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Chtapodi me Kritharaki (Χταπόδι με Κριθαράκι)
Aegean island octopus, tomato, red wine, and toasted kritharaki share one pot, so the pasta drinks the briny sauce and stays glossy instead of turning heavy.
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Garides saganaki belongs to the Thessaloniki harbour table: shrimp, tomato, feta, a little ouzo, and the small two-handled pan that gives the dish its name.
Garides saganaki is a Thessaloniki harbour dish before it is a restaurant slogan: shrimp in a sharp tomato sauce, feta softening into the edges, and the little two-handled pan, the saganaki, brought straight to the table. The sauce is bright, salty, and a little briny. It asks for bread, not ceremony.
The one rule is timing. Build the tomato sauce first, until it is thick enough to leave a clean trail when you drag the spoon through it, then add the shrimp only at the end. Shrimp forgive almost nothing. Give them a few minutes in the hot sauce and they stay sweet and springy; cook them from the beginning and they turn tight before the feta even has time to warm.
Use good tomatoes in season, or good canned tomatoes when winter is telling the truth. A splash of ouzo is common in the north, but it should sit behind the tomato and seafood, not shout over them. Good olive oil, and patience. That is enough.
Saganaki takes its name from the small two-handled pan, related to the Turkish word sahan, and in Greece it names the vessel as much as the dish. Garides saganaki is a modern taverna and ouzerie dish, especially at urban harbour tables such as Thessaloniki, where seafood meze, tomato, feta, and anise-scented spirits met naturally in the same pan. Its history is not ancient village cooking, but it is still real Greek cooking: a recorded small-pan dish of the twentieth-century table.
Quantity
600g
peeled and deveined, tails left on if liked
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
3
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
30ml
Quantity
500g
grated
Quantity
400g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
180g
crumbled into large pieces
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
Quantity
as needed
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large raw shrimp (garides)peeled and deveined, tails left on if liked | 600g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 60ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| garlic clovesthinly sliced | 3 |
| small red chilli (optional)finely chopped | 1 |
| dried chilli flakes (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dry white wine | 120ml |
| ouzo (optional) | 30ml |
| ripe tomatoesgrated | 500g |
| canned crushed tomatoes (optional) | 400g |
| tomato paste | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| dried Greek oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| Greek fetacrumbled into large pieces | 180g |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh dillchopped | 1 tablespoon |
| lemoncut into wedges | 1 |
| country breadfor serving | as needed |
Pat the shrimp dry and season them lightly with a pinch of the salt and the black pepper. Keep them cold while you make the sauce. If the shrimp smell clean and faintly sweet, you're on the right road; if they smell strong, no sauce will rescue them.
Warm the olive oil in a 26cm saganaki pan or ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until soft and pale gold at the edges. Add the garlic and chilli and cook for 1 minute more, just until the garlic smells sweet.
Stir in the tomato paste and let it darken for 1 minute. Pour in the wine and ouzo, scraping the pan, and let them bubble for 2 minutes so the sharp alcohol edge cooks off and the sauce begins to gather itself.
Add the grated or crushed tomatoes, the remaining salt, and the oregano. Simmer uncovered for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce is thick and glossy and a spoon dragged through the pan leaves a clean trail for a moment.
Heat the oven to 220C. Nestle the shrimp into the thick sauce in one layer and spoon a little sauce over them. Cook on the stovetop for 2 minutes only, until the undersides begin to turn pink. This late addition is what keeps the shrimp tender.
Scatter the feta over the pan in large crumbles, not dust. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until the shrimp are just opaque, the feta has softened, and the sauce bubbles thickly around the edges.
Rest the pan for 2 minutes, then finish with parsley, dill, and a thread of olive oil if the sauce wants it. Serve straight from the saganaki with lemon wedges and bread for the sauce. The pan is hot, so put it down with respect.
1 serving (about 350g)
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