
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Chtapodi me Kritharaki (Χταπόδι με Κριθαράκι)
Aegean island octopus, tomato, red wine, and toasted kritharaki share one pot, so the pasta drinks the briny sauce and stays glossy instead of turning heavy.
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Aegean island octopus, simmered tender in its own juices, then marked hard on the grill and finished with oil, vinegar, oregano, and lemon.
Chtapodi sti Schara belongs to the Aegean island quay: octopus first softened in its own red juices, then grilled until the edges catch and the suckers turn crisp in places. It is the ouzo plate you find where the fishing boats tie up, simple enough to look obvious and exact enough to punish haste.
The one method that decides it is this: add no water. The octopus gives its own cooking liquid, salty and dark, and that liquid is the flavor you want to keep. Boil it in water and you wash the sea out of it. Grill it from raw and you'll fight the chew all evening.
I cook it gently first, then char it quickly, and I don't bury it under sauce. Olive oil, vinegar, oregano, lemon. Λίγα και καλά. The region is the dish's surname here: on the islands, this is not restaurant theater, it is how a hard ingredient becomes tender enough for a long table and a small glass.
Grilled octopus is tied to the fishing communities of the Aegean islands, especially the Cyclades and Dodecanese, where octopus was traditionally beaten on seaside rocks and sun-dried briefly before cooking. The common modern use of frozen octopus is not a betrayal of the dish; freezing helps tenderize the muscle in a way the old beating once did. Its place as an ouzo meze grew from the kafeneio and harbour table, where salty, smoky seafood called for a small glass rather than a full feast.
Quantity
1.5kg
cleaned, fresh or thawed from frozen
Quantity
2
Quantity
60ml
divided
Quantity
90ml
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon
crushed between your fingers
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
only if needed after tasting
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole octopus (chtapodi)cleaned, fresh or thawed from frozen | 1.5kg |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| red wine vinegardivided | 60ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oildivided | 90ml |
| dried Greek oreganocrushed between your fingers | 1 teaspoon |
| lemoncut into wedges | 1 |
| fine sea salt (optional)only if needed after tasting | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
Rinse the octopus well, especially inside the head, and pat it dry. If the beak and eyes are still attached, cut them away. Leave the tentacles whole for now, because they cook more evenly and look like themselves on the grill.
Put the octopus in a heavy pot with the bay leaves and 30ml of the vinegar. Cover tightly and set over low heat. Add no water. Octopus carries its own sea inside it, and as it warms it gives enough liquid to cook in; water only thins the flavor and leaves you with a polite, tired thing.
Cook gently for 45 to 60 minutes, turning the octopus once or twice in its own dark red juices. It is ready when a small knife slips into the thickest part of a tentacle with only a little resistance. If your octopus is older or very large, give it another 10 minutes. Patience is cheaper than chewing.
Lift the octopus onto a tray and let it cool until you can handle it. Boil the liquid in the pot for 5 to 8 minutes until glossy and salty-sweet, then strain it. Cut the tentacles apart and keep the head in large pieces if you like it, as many island cooks do.
Whisk 45ml olive oil with 2 tablespoons of the reduced octopus juices, the remaining 30ml vinegar, the oregano, and the black pepper. Brush the octopus lightly with this dressing. Taste before adding salt; the octopus and its juices may already have given you enough.
Heat a charcoal grill or ridged grill pan until very hot. Grill the tentacles for 2 to 3 minutes per side, just until the edges char and the suction cups crisp in spots. Don't park it there. The octopus is already cooked, and the grill's job is smoke, edges, and appetite.
Lay the grilled octopus on a warm platter. Spoon over the remaining 45ml olive oil and a little more of the reduced juices if you have them. Serve with lemon wedges, more oregano if you like, and bread for the oil. A cold glass of ouzo beside it is not decoration; it is the table.
1 serving (about 245g)
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