
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Taramosalata (Ταραμοσαλάτα)
Pale Aegean taramosalata is cured roe, soaked bread, lemon, and olive oil worked slowly until it turns thick and clean, made for lagana on Clean Monday.
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On Syros, whole bunches of parsley are pounded with garlic, stale bread, vinegar, capers, and olive oil into a bright green meze made for salt fish and a loaf of bread.
Syros maidanosalata is parsley given the whole bowl, not a garnish scattered at the end. In the Cyclades, and especially on Syros, it becomes a sharp green spread pounded with garlic, stale bread, vinegar, capers, and olive oil. It sits close to pesto in the eye, but the soul is Greek and plain in the best way: bread for body, vinegar for bite, herbs by the fistful. The region is the dish's surname.
The one method that decides it is the bread. Soak it, squeeze it hard, then work it into the pounded parsley before you drizzle in the oil. Damp bread catches the oil and vinegar and gives the spread its body; wet bread makes it loose, and dry bread leaves it scratchy. That's the whole trick.
I make it when the table needs waking up: beside salt cod, grilled sardines, boiled potatoes, or just good bread. It is nistisimo, fit for the fasting table, and it keeps its color and bite long enough for a picnic if you cover the surface with a little oil. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, and this one deserves to stay as Syros made it.
Maidanosalata belongs to Syros in the Cyclades, especially the meze table of Ermoupoli, the port city that grew quickly after refugees from Chios, Psara, and other Aegean communities settled there during the Greek War of Independence. In a busy nineteenth-century port where salt fish, capers, stale bread, and herb bunches were ordinary provisions, parsley became the main ingredient rather than a garnish. That is its surprise: the green on the plate is the dish.
Quantity
140g
leaves and tender stems, washed and dried very well
Quantity
80g
crusts removed
Quantity
as needed
for soaking the bread
Quantity
2 cloves, about 10g
roughly chopped
Quantity
60g
roughly chopped
Quantity
20g
rinsed and drained
Quantity
30ml
Quantity
15ml
Quantity
120ml, plus 1 tablespoon
plus extra for finishing
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
as needed
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| flat-leaf parsley (maidanos)leaves and tender stems, washed and dried very well | 140g |
| stale country breadcrusts removed | 80g |
| cold waterfor soaking the bread | as needed |
| garlic clovesroughly chopped | 2 cloves, about 10g |
| red onionroughly chopped | 60g |
| capersrinsed and drained | 20g |
| white wine vinegar | 30ml |
| fresh lemon juice | 15ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilplus extra for finishing | 120ml, plus 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| country bread, rusks, boiled potatoes, or salt fish (optional)to serve | as needed |
Trim away only the tough lower parsley stems. Keep the tender stems, because they carry flavor. Wash the parsley in two changes of cold water, then spin it dry and spread it on a clean towel for 10 minutes. The leaves should feel dry to the touch before they go into the mortar or processor.
Tear the stale bread into a bowl and cover it with cold water for 5 minutes. Lift it out and squeeze hard over the sink until it feels damp and pliable, not dripping. This is the step that decides the texture: damp bread catches the oil and vinegar and gives the spread its body; wet bread makes it loose, and dry bread leaves it rough.
In a large mortar, pound the garlic with the salt until it becomes a paste. Add the onion and capers and pound again until juicy and broken down. Add the parsley by the handful, pounding each addition before the next goes in. If you're using a food processor, pulse in short bursts and scrape often. Stop while it still looks like a coarse green spread, not parsley juice.
Add the squeezed bread, vinegar, lemon juice, and black pepper. Pound or pulse until the bread disappears into the parsley. Drizzle in the 120ml olive oil slowly, working the mixture the whole time, until it turns glossy and thick enough to sit on a spoon. Taste for salt and vinegar. It should be sharp, green, and awake.
Spoon the maidanosalata into a shallow bowl and make a small well in the top. Cover and rest it for 30 to 60 minutes in the refrigerator so the garlic settles into the herbs. Before serving, bring it back toward cool room temperature and finish with a tablespoon of olive oil. Serve with salt fish, grilled sardines, boiled potatoes, rusks, or a loaf of good bread.
1 serving (about 75g)
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