
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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Crisp cornmeal crusted slices of unripe tomato, shatteringly golden on the outside with a tart, tender bite within. This is front-porch cooking at its finest, the kind of dish that turns summer gardens into celebrations.
Green tomatoes are not a mistake. They are a gift from gardeners who understand that the season's last fruits deserve their own moment of glory. When frost threatens and the vines hang heavy with tomatoes that will never see red, Southerners have always known what to do: slice them thick, coat them in cornmeal, and fry them until the kitchen smells like a reason to call the neighbors.
The technique is straightforward but demands attention. Your tomatoes must be genuinely unripe, firm enough to resist a firm thumb press, their flesh pale green and unapologetically tart. This acidity is the whole point. It cuts through the richness of the cornmeal crust and the oil that crisps it, creating a balance that ripe tomatoes simply cannot achieve.
I learned to make these in a farmhouse kitchen outside Charleston, where an elderly woman named Miss Della kept a cast iron skillet seasoned by four generations of frying. She measured nothing and apologized for nothing. The tomatoes came from her own vines, the cornmeal from a mill down the road, and the buttermilk from a dairy she'd trusted since childhood. This is that recipe, translated into measurements for those of us who weren't raised at her elbow.
Quantity
4 large (about 2 pounds)
firm and unripe
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 cup
preferably stone-ground
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
about 1/2 inch depth in skillet
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| green tomatoesfirm and unripe | 4 large (about 2 pounds) |
| all-purpose flour | 1 cup |
| yellow cornmealpreferably stone-ground | 1 cup |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more for finishing |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| garlic powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| large eggs | 2 |
| buttermilk | 1 cup |
| vegetable or peanut oilfor frying | about 1/2 inch depth in skillet |
Cut off and discard the stem ends of each tomato. Slice crosswise into rounds about 1/3-inch thick. Any thinner and they'll turn to mush; any thicker and the centers won't warm through before the crust burns. You want eight to ten good slices per tomato. Lay them in a single layer on paper towels and blot the surfaces dry. Moisture is the enemy of a crisp crust.
Arrange three shallow dishes in a row. In the first, place the flour. In the second, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk until smooth and the color of pale sunshine. In the third, combine the cornmeal, salt, black pepper, cayenne, and garlic powder, stirring with a fork until the seasonings are evenly distributed. This assembly line will keep your hands clean and your coating consistent.
Pour oil into a 12-inch cast iron skillet to a depth of about half an inch. Set over medium-high heat. The oil is ready when it shimmers and a pinch of cornmeal dropped in sizzles immediately and floats, dancing on the surface. This happens around 350°F. If you have a thermometer, use it. If not, trust your senses.
Working with one slice at a time, dredge in flour and shake off the excess. The flour creates a dry surface for the wet ingredients to grip. Dip into the buttermilk mixture, letting excess drip back into the bowl. Finally, press both sides firmly into the seasoned cornmeal, coating completely. The coating should look thick and textured, like pale gold sandpaper. Set breaded slices on a wire rack as you work.
Carefully lay breaded slices into the hot oil, working in batches of four or five to avoid crowding. Crowding drops the oil temperature and steams the coating instead of crisping it. Fry undisturbed for two to three minutes until the bottom turns deep golden brown. You'll hear active sizzling that settles into a steady rhythm. Flip with a spatula and fry another two to three minutes until both sides are uniformly crisp.
Transfer fried tomatoes to a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Never drain on paper towels laid flat because the steam trapped beneath will soften your hard-won crust. Season immediately with a light shower of flaky salt while the surface is still hot enough to grip it. The salt should sparkle against the golden cornmeal.
Arrange on a warm platter and serve within minutes. These are not patient food. The crust begins to soften the moment it leaves the oil, and the tart tomato inside continues to release moisture. If serving with remoulade or comeback sauce, offer it alongside for dipping rather than drizzled over top, preserving that satisfying crunch until the final bite.
1 serving (about 285g)
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