Borracho Beans

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot (5-quart minimum)
• •Slotted spoon
• •Wooden spoon for stirring

Instructions

1. 1

   Render the bacon

   Set a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the bacon pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the meat crisps at the edges but remains slightly chewy in the center, about eight to ten minutes. The bacon will continue cooking in the braise, so don't take it too far now. You want deeply golden, not burnt. Remove about half the bacon pieces with a slotted spoon and set aside for garnishing later.

   Thick-cut bacon is worth seeking out. Thin strips disappear into the beans. You want substantial pieces that announce themselves in every bite.
2. 2

   Build the aromatics

   Add the diced onion to the bacon fat remaining in the pot. Cook until softened and translucent, stirring occasionally, about five minutes. The onion should pick up some color from the fond on the bottom of the pot. Add the garlic and jalapeños, cooking until fragrant and the peppers begin to soften, another two minutes. The kitchen will smell like the start of something good.

3. 3

   Add beans and liquid

   Pour in the fire-roasted tomatoes with their juices. Stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Add the rinsed pinto beans, beer, and chicken stock. The liquid should cover the beans by about an inch. Stir in the cumin, oregano, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Bring everything to a boil over high heat.

   Modelo Especial, Dos Equis, or Tecate are traditional choices. Avoid hoppy craft beers, which turn bitter during the long simmer. If you're cooking for someone who doesn't drink alcohol, substitute an equal amount of chicken stock with a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar.
4. 4

   Simmer low and slow

   Once boiling, reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. The surface should show lazy bubbles rising every few seconds, not a rolling boil. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and checking the liquid level every thirty minutes. Add more stock or water if the beans start to look dry. They should always be swimming, never sitting exposed.

5. 5

   Test for doneness

   After about two hours, begin testing the beans. They're done when completely tender but still holding their shape, yielding to gentle pressure without turning to mush. Some beans will have burst, thickening the broth naturally. This is correct. The timing varies depending on the age of your beans, so trust texture over the clock. Could take ninety minutes, could take closer to three hours.

   Old beans take longer to soften. Buy from stores with good turnover, and check the package date if available. Beans from the bulk bin at a slow grocery store may never fully tenderize.
6. 6

   Adjust consistency

   The finished beans should be saucy but not soupy. The liquid should coat a spoon and pool around the beans, not cover them completely. If too thin, simmer uncovered for another fifteen minutes to concentrate. If too thick, add stock by the quarter cup until you reach the right consistency. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

7. 7

   Finish and serve

   Remove the pot from heat. Stir in the lime juice and half the chopped cilantro. Taste and adjust salt. The lime brightens everything without making the dish taste citrusy. Ladle into a warm serving bowl, scatter the reserved crispy bacon over the top, and finish with the remaining cilantro. Serve immediately, or keep warm on the lowest heat for up to an hour.

Chef Tips

• •Skip the overnight soak. Unsoaked beans take longer to cook but develop better texture and flavor. The braise has plenty of time to do its work, and you avoid the blown-out, mealy texture that can plague soaked beans.
• •Make these the day before your gathering. Like most braises, borracho beans improve overnight as the flavors marry. Reheat gently with a splash of stock to loosen, then add fresh cilantro just before serving.
• •For smokier beans, add a smoked ham hock along with the liquid and remove it before serving. The collagen enriches the broth while the smoke deepens the bacon's contribution.
• •These beans want company. Serve alongside grilled carne asada, slow-smoked brisket, or simple tacos. They're also remarkable spooned over rice with a fried egg on top for a weeknight dinner that feels like a celebration.

Advance Preparation

• •Beans can be made up to four days ahead and refrigerated. The flavors improve significantly after resting overnight. Reheat gently over medium-low heat, adding stock as needed to restore the saucy consistency.
• •Freeze beautifully for up to three months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator and reheat slowly. Add fresh cilantro after reheating.
• •For potlucks, transport in the cooking pot wrapped in towels. The cast iron holds heat for well over an hour. Add the final cilantro garnish just before serving at your destination.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 380g)