
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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Humble dried peas transformed through hours of gentle simmering with a meaty ham hock, emerging tender and creamy in a smoky, deeply savory pot likker that demands to be sopped up with cornbread.
Black-eyed peas arrived in the American South through the cruelest of circumstances. Enslaved Africans brought their knowledge of these legumes across the Atlantic, and from that tragedy emerged one of our most treasured culinary traditions. Every pot of black-eyed peas simmering on a Southern stove carries this history. Cook them with the respect they deserve.
The New Year's tradition runs deep. Eat your black-eyed peas on January first for luck, your greens for prosperity, your cornbread for gold. I've never been superstitious about much, but I wouldn't dream of skipping this meal. Some rituals matter because they connect us to the people who came before.
The technique is honest and forgiving. You simmer a ham hock until it surrenders its smoke and salt to the water, then add your peas and let time do the work. No fancy equipment. No complicated methods. Just patience and a willingness to taste as you go. The pot likker that develops is liquid gold, and anyone who discards it has missed the entire point of Southern cooking.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 large (about 1 pound)
Quantity
8 cups
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
freshly cracked
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried black-eyed peas | 1 pound |
| smoked ham hock | 1 large (about 1 pound) |
| water | 8 cups |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| smoked paprika | 1/2 teaspoon |
| apple cider vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| bacon fat or vegetable oil | 2 tablespoons |
| hot sauce (optional) | for serving |
Spread the dried black-eyed peas on a rimmed baking sheet. Pick through them carefully, removing any small stones, shriveled peas, or debris. Dried legumes come from the earth, and sometimes the earth comes with them. Transfer to a colander and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear.
Place the ham hock in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot. Add the eight cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat. The moment it boils, reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Let the ham hock work its magic for forty-five minutes to one hour, until the meat begins to loosen from the bone and the water takes on a pale, smoky color.
While the ham hock simmers, heat the bacon fat in a skillet over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent with golden edges, about eight minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, another minute. The kitchen should smell like Sunday at your grandmother's house.
Scrape the onion mixture into the pot with the ham hock. Add the sorted black-eyed peas, bay leaves, black pepper, cayenne, and smoked paprika. Stir to combine. The peas will sink and settle. Return to a gentle simmer.
Let the peas simmer uncovered for one hour to one hour and thirty minutes. Stir occasionally, scraping the bottom to prevent sticking. The peas are done when they're creamy and tender but still hold their shape. Bite one. It should yield completely without any chalky resistance in the center. The liquid will reduce and thicken into a rich, smoky pot likker.
Remove the ham hock to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bone, discarding the skin, fat, and cartilage. Shred or chop the meat into bite-sized pieces. Return the meat to the pot. The bone has given everything it had.
Add the apple cider vinegar and stir. Taste the pot likker and season with salt, adding it gradually. The ham hock contributed salt, so you may need less than you expect. Adjust cayenne if you want more heat. Remove and discard the bay leaves. The peas should be saucy but not soupy. If too thin, simmer uncovered for another ten minutes.
Let the peas rest off heat for fifteen minutes before serving. Like most braises, they improve as they sit. Serve in shallow bowls with plenty of pot likker. Pass hot sauce at the table for those who want it. Cornbread is not optional.
1 serving (about 280g)
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