
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Skopelos names this tiropita by its spiral: thin handmade phyllo wrapped around salty feta, coiled tight, and fried slowly in olive oil until the ridges crisp and the center cooks through.
Skopelitiki tiropita is Skopelos's cheese pie, a thin phyllo rope filled with salty white cheese, coiled into a spiral, and fried in olive oil. The region is the dish's surname. This is not the square tray of tiropita from a mainland bakery. It is individual, crisp-ridged, and eaten warm, with the filling just soft enough to pull.
One method decides it: fry slowly. If the oil is fierce, the outside colors while the inner coil stays doughy. Keep a steady modest sizzle and turn it only once or twice, so the phyllo cooks all the way through before it goes deep gold. Good olive oil, and patience.
I keep the filling plain because Skopelos does. Firm sheep's feta works, or a local goat-and-sheep white cheese if you have one. No herbs, no clever little additions. Your first pie may not be a perfect circle, but if the dough has rested and the pan is calm, it will taste like the island meant it to taste.
Skopelitiki tiropita belongs to Skopelos in the Northern Sporades, where its name on a menu means the individual fried spiral, not the pan-baked cheese pies common elsewhere. The form comes from handmade village phyllo rolled around sheep and goat cheese, then coiled and cooked in a frying pan, a practical island pie that needed no oven and no large tapsi. Its fame now reaches the ferry ports, but the marker remains the same: thin phyllo, white cheese, and the slow frying that cooks the coil through.
Quantity
500g
plus extra for rolling
Quantity
8g
Quantity
260ml
Quantity
60ml
for the dough
Quantity
15ml
Quantity
450g
crumbled
Quantity
60ml
for brushing the phyllo
Quantity
300ml
for frying, or enough for 1cm depth in the pan
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus extra for rolling | 500g |
| fine sea salt | 8g |
| lukewarm water | 260ml |
| extra virgin olive oilfor the dough | 60ml |
| white wine vinegar | 15ml |
| firm sheep's milk feta or local goat-and-sheep white cheesecrumbled | 450g |
| extra virgin olive oilfor brushing the phyllo | 60ml |
| extra virgin olive oilfor frying, or enough for 1cm depth in the pan | 300ml |
Stir the flour and salt in a wide bowl. Add the lukewarm water, 60ml olive oil, and vinegar, then mix until a rough dough forms. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and springy. If it feels dry, wet your hands once and keep kneading before you add more water.
Shape the dough into a ball, rub it with a little olive oil, cover it, and rest it for 45 minutes at room temperature. This rest matters. It lets the dough relax, so you can roll it thin without fighting it.
Crumble the feta into small uneven pieces. If it is wet, set it in a sieve for 15 minutes while the dough rests. Skopelitiki tiropita wants salty white cheese, not a creamy filling.
Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Keep five covered while you work with one. On a lightly floured surface, roll the first piece into a very thin sheet, about 35 to 40cm across. Brush off loose flour, then brush the sheet lightly with olive oil.
Scatter about 75g cheese in a loose line along the lower edge of the phyllo. Roll it up into a rope, not too tight, then coil the rope into a flat spiral and tuck the end underneath. Press only enough to hold the shape. Repeat with the remaining dough and cheese.
Pour olive oil into a heavy pan to 1cm depth and warm it over medium-low heat. Slide in one or two spirals, as long as they have room. Fry 5 to 6 minutes on the first side and 4 to 5 minutes on the second, until deep gold and crisp-ridged. The pan must sound calm, a steady modest sizzle. If the oil is too fierce, the outside colors while the inner coil stays doughy. This is the method that decides the pie.
Lift each tiropita onto a wire rack set over a tray. Let it stand 3 to 5 minutes before serving, so the cheese settles and the crust keeps its bite. Eat warm, with tomatoes in season or a few olives beside it.
1 serving (about 190g)
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