
Chef Elsa
Anisbogen
Paper-thin anise wafers piped, dried overnight, baked pale gold, and bent over a rolling pin while still hot. Old-fashioned Austrian Weihnachtsbäckerei at its most elegant and rewarding.
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Dark cocoa crescent cookies with ground hazelnuts and both tips dipped in bittersweet chocolate, the bolder sibling on every Austrian Christmas cookie plate.
Every December, my grandmother Eva's kitchen in Deal turned into a small Viennese Konditorei. She and Gretel would spend three days baking through the Weihnachtsbäckerei, the Christmas cookie repertoire that Austrian families guard like state secrets. Vanillekipferl came first, always. Then the Schokokipferl, their darker, quieter cousins. I remember Gretel rolling dough between her palms with a speed that made me dizzy, each crescent identical, each curve exactly right. I was maybe eight, sitting on a stool, trying to copy her. My crescents looked like small brown slugs. She didn't say a word about it. She just kept shaping and let me figure it out.
Schokokipferl start where Vanillekipferl leave off and go somewhere richer. The dough is short and sandy with ground hazelnuts and good Dutch-process cocoa, the kind that smells like a proper Viennese Kaffeehaus when you open the tin. You shape them into the same tight crescents, bake them until they're just firm, and then do the thing that makes them truly special: you dip both tips in melted bittersweet chocolate and let it set to a clean, dark shine. The cookie itself is tender and crumbly with a deep, not-too-sweet cocoa flavor. The chocolate tips give you something to hold onto while you eat, and they add a snap that plays against the melt of the dough.
These are not complicated. The dough takes ten minutes and the shaping is meditative once you get the rhythm. What they ask for is good ingredients and a little patience while the chocolate sets. Make a double batch. Gretel always said that a Kipferl plate with only one kind of Kipferl is like a Kaffeehaus with only one kind of coffee. It misses the point entirely.
The Kipferl shape traces back centuries in Austrian baking, with the crescent form often linked to Vienna's victory over the Ottoman siege of 1683, though bakers were shaping crescents well before that. Vanillekipferl became the dominant Christmas cookie by the 19th century, appearing on every Weihnachtsteller (Christmas cookie plate) alongside Lebkuchen and Linzer Augen. The Schokokipferl variation gained popularity in the 20th century as Dutch-process cocoa became widely available in Austrian pantries, offering bakers a way to ring a change on a beloved shape without abandoning the technique. In Austria, a proper Christmas plate includes at least five different cookies, and the Kipferl family, vanilla and chocolate, always claims two of those spots.
Quantity
200g
cold, cut into small cubes
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1 packet (8g)
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
200g
Quantity
30g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
150g
for dipping
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttercold, cut into small cubes | 200g |
| powdered sugar (Staubzucker) | 80g |
| Vanillezucker (vanilla sugar) | 1 packet (8g) |
| fine salt | pinch |
| plain flour | 200g |
| Dutch-process cocoa powder | 30g |
| ground hazelnuts | 100g |
| bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa)for dipping | 150g |
Cut the cold butter into small cubes and put them in a large bowl with the flour, cocoa powder, ground hazelnuts, powdered sugar, Vanillezucker, and salt. Work everything together with your fingertips, rubbing the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture looks like damp sand and starts clumping when you press it. Then bring it together into a smooth dough with your hands, kneading it briefly on the counter, no more than a minute. The dough should hold together and feel like cold clay. If it's sticky, you've overworked it and the butter has warmed up. If it's crumbly and won't come together, press harder. The ground hazelnuts have enough oil to bind everything.
Flatten the dough into a thick disc, wrap it in cling film, and refrigerate for at least one hour. The dough needs to firm up so you can shape it cleanly. Cold dough holds its crescent shape in the oven instead of spreading into flat little puddles. Don't skip this step. Go make a coffee. Read something. The dough will wait for you.
Preheat your oven to 170°C (340°F). Line two baking trays with parchment paper. Take the dough from the fridge and pinch off small pieces, about the size of a walnut. Roll each piece between your palms into a small log about seven centimeters long, slightly thicker in the middle and tapered at both ends. Curve the log gently into a crescent and place it on the tray. Leave about two centimeters between each cookie. They won't spread much, but they need room.
Bake for 12 to 14 minutes. The cookies are done when the surface looks dry and matte and they feel just firm when you press one lightly with your fingertip. They will still feel slightly soft in the center. That's right. They firm up as they cool. Overbaking is the enemy here. A Kipferl that snaps when you bite it has spent too long in the oven. You want it to crumble and melt on your tongue. Let them cool completely on the tray. They are fragile when warm and will break if you try to move them too soon.
Break the bittersweet chocolate into small pieces and melt it gently. A bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water works best. Keep the heat low and stir often. The water should not touch the bottom of the bowl and you must not let a single drop get into the chocolate, or it will seize into a grainy mess. When it's smooth and glossy, take it off the heat.
Take each cooled Kipferl and dip both tips, about one centimeter deep, into the melted chocolate. Hold it for a second to let the excess drip off, then lay it back on the parchment. Work steadily but without rushing. If the chocolate starts to thicken as it cools, set it back over the warm water for a moment. Once all the cookies are dipped, let the chocolate set completely. A cool room takes about thirty minutes. The fridge works in ten but can leave the chocolate with a dull bloom, so I prefer patience.
Layer the finished Schokokipferl in a tin between sheets of parchment paper. They keep beautifully for two weeks in a cool place, and they actually improve after a day or two as the flavors deepen and the texture settles. Arrange them on a plate with Vanillekipferl for the full effect: dark crescents and pale crescents side by side. That's a proper Austrian Weihnachtsteller. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 15g)
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