
Chef Klaus
Apfelmus
The apple-harvest preserve of the German kitchen, cooked low until the fruit collapses, then kept smooth, tart, and ready for potato pancakes or warm Mehlspeisen.
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The Rhenish winter bean before freezers: green beans cut fine, salted until their own sour brine does the keeping, then cooked into the pot instead of eaten raw from the crock.
Saure Bohnen, called Schnippelbohnen in the Rhineland and Westphalia, are what you do when the bean rows are too generous in late summer and winter is already standing in the doorway. You cut the green beans fine, salt them like Sauerkraut, and let the brine sour them until they taste sharp, green, and clean. In winter they go into the pot with potatoes, onions, Speck, bacon, Mettwurst, or a piece of smoked pork. Weeknight food, Sunday food if the sausage is good enough.
Every region pulls the bean its own way. The Rhineland and Westphalia keep the sour bean as a larder staple and often cook it with potatoes or smoked pork; in Hesse and the Saarland it leans toward soup and stew; farther south the fresh bean more often lands with Bohnenkraut, summer savory, or a vinegar dressing. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This is the western crock, not the whole country pretending to agree.
The rule that decides it is simple: weigh the trimmed beans and salt them at 2.5 percent, then keep every shred under brine. The salt pulls juice from the cut bean and gives lactic bacteria the pace they need; the brine shuts out air, and air is what mold wants. If the beans rise above the liquid, you haven't made Saure Bohnen, you've made waste. Weggeworfen wird nichts, so weight them properly.
One more thing, and no arguing with the pot: fermented green beans are cooked before eating. The souring preserves the bean and builds the taste, but heat makes the bean fit for the table. Rinse if they're too sharp, simmer until tender, and salt only after tasting. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Saure Bohnen belong to the same salt-fermentation larder as Sauerkraut, a practical answer to the late-summer bean crop in the Rhineland, Westphalia, Hesse, and the Saarland before freezers reached ordinary kitchens. Nicolas Appert published his method for heat-sterilized preserving in 1810, but rural German households kept using crocks because salt, pressure, and a cool cellar were cheaper than bottles and fuel. The name Schnippelbohnen comes from schnippeln, to snip or cut small, and it points to the method: beans were sliced fine so salt could draw brine quickly and the winter pot would cook evenly.
Quantity
2kg
trimmed and strings removed
Quantity
50g
2.5 percent of trimmed bean weight
Quantity
8 sprigs or 2 teaspoons dried
Quantity
up to 500ml
500ml water mixed with 13g salt
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
75g bacon or 2 tablespoons lard
for cooking a portion
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into chunks
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
only after tasting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| young green beanstrimmed and strings removed | 2kg |
| fine sea salt or pickling salt2.5 percent of trimmed bean weight | 50g |
| summer savory (Bohnenkraut) | 8 sprigs or 2 teaspoons dried |
| boiled and cooled 2.5 percent brine (optional)500ml water mixed with 13g salt | up to 500ml |
| onion (optional)finely diced | 1 |
| smoked bacon (Speck) or lard (optional)for cooking a portion | 75g bacon or 2 tablespoons lard |
| potatoes (optional)peeled and cut into chunks | 500g |
| unsalted stock or water (optional) | 300ml |
| freshly ground black pepper (optional) | to taste |
| salt (optional)only after tasting | to taste |
Wash the beans, trim the ends, pull away any strings, and weigh the beans after trimming. The salt follows the cleaned weight, not the market weight, because 2.5 percent salt is the guardrail that lets the right souring take hold without making the beans harsh. Leave out any soft or spotted beans; a bad bean in a closed crock does not improve with time.
Cut the beans crosswise into thin 5mm pieces, or run them through a bean slicer if you have one. The cut is not decoration. It opens enough surface for salt to pull moisture quickly and for the brine to move through the pile; whole beans trap air and ferment unevenly.
Mix the cut beans with the salt and summer savory in a large bowl, then leave them 30 minutes until they begin to glisten. Knead and press them hard with clean hands for 5 to 8 minutes, until a little brine gathers in the bottom of the bowl. The rest gives the salt time to draw juice; the bruising breaks the bean cells so the brine can do the keeping. No vinegar in the crock. Vinegar makes a quick pickle, and this dish is kept by the sour brine it grows itself.
Pack the beans into a clean stoneware crock or wide-mouth jars in small handfuls, pressing each layer down hard before adding the next. Pressing drives out air pockets, and air is where spoilage starts. Pour in the bean brine from the bowl, then add just enough cooled 2.5 percent brine to cover the beans by 2cm. Leave 3cm headspace, set a fermentation weight on top, and make sure no shred floats above the liquid.
Set the crock or jars at 18 to 22C, out of direct sun, for 7 to 10 days. Use an airlock or loosen the lid once a day, because fermentation makes gas and a sealed jar has no manners. The brine should turn cloudy, bubble gently, and smell cleanly sour. If the kitchen is above 24C, runter mit der Temperatur, move the beans somewhere cooler; too much warmth softens them before the sourness has settled.
When active bubbling slows and the brine tastes clearly sour, move the beans to a refrigerator or cool cellar for at least 2 more weeks. The cold slows the ferment so the beans keep some bite and the sourness rounds out; eat them too early and they taste mostly of salt and impatience. Keep them submerged the whole time. Das braucht seine Zeit.
To serve one pot, lift out about 500g fermented beans and rinse them briefly only if they taste too salty. Cook diced onion and Speck in a little lard until the fat runs clear, then add the beans, potatoes if using, and enough unsalted stock or water to come halfway up. Simmer 12 to 20 minutes, until the beans and potatoes are tender. Fermentation gives sourness and storage; heat makes green beans fit for the table. Finish with black pepper and salt only after tasting, because the brine and bacon have already spoken.
1 serving (about 300g)
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