
Chef Elsa
Anisbogen
Paper-thin anise wafers piped, dried overnight, baked pale gold, and bent over a rolling pin while still hot. Old-fashioned Austrian Weihnachtsbäckerei at its most elegant and rewarding.
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Salzburg's softer, creamier take on the Austrian coconut macaroon, with Topfen folded into the batter to keep them moist through every day of the Christmas cookie tin.
In my grandmother Eva's kitchen in Kent, the arrival of December meant one thing before anything else: Kekse. Christmas cookies. Eva and Gretel would take over the kitchen for days, working through a list of recipes that seemed to grow every year. Vanillekipferl first, always. Then Linzer Augen. Then whatever Gretel had brought back from her latest trip to Austria, scribbled on the back of a train ticket or a Kaffeehaus napkin.
Kokosmakronen were on the list every year. Coconut macaroons, crisp on the outside and chewy through the middle, baked on thin Oblaten wafers and packed into tins lined with wax paper. But the version I love best is one I came to later, after I moved to Salzburg. A Konditorin at the Grünmarkt sold macaroons that were different from any I'd had before. Softer. Creamier. They didn't dry out after two days the way the classic ones sometimes do. Her secret was Topfen, the fresh curd cheese that Austrians use in everything from Strudel to Knödel. She folded it into the coconut mixture before shaping, and the result was a macaroon that stayed tender for a week.
Topfen does two things here. The moisture in the curd keeps the interior soft while the outside still forms that gentle crust you want. And the slight tang cuts the sweetness of the coconut just enough that you can eat four of them before you realize what's happened. These are not complicated cookies. Egg whites, sugar, coconut, Topfen, a little lemon zest. You can have a tray in the oven in twenty minutes. But that Topfen makes all the difference, and it's the reason I make the Salzburg version now instead of the one I grew up with.
Kokosmakronen belong to Austria's deep tradition of Weihnachtsbäckerei, the weeks-long Christmas baking season when households produce dozens of cookie varieties to fill ornamental tins. Coconut arrived in Viennese kitchens through the empire's trade networks in the 19th century and quickly found its way into the Mehlspeisen repertoire. The addition of Topfen to the classic macaroon is a Salzburg regional variation, one of many quiet local adaptations that distinguish Austrian baking from province to province, even when the base recipe looks identical on paper.
Quantity
3 large
Quantity
150g
Quantity
1 packet (8g)
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
125g
well-drained, 20% fat
Quantity
200g
Quantity
1
zested
Quantity
approximately 30
5cm rounds
Quantity
30
for topping
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| egg whites | 3 large |
| caster sugar | 150g |
| Vanillezucker (vanilla sugar) | 1 packet (8g) |
| fine salt | pinch |
| Topfen (quark)well-drained, 20% fat | 125g |
| desiccated coconut | 200g |
| unwaxed lemonzested | 1 |
| Oblaten wafers5cm rounds | approximately 30 |
| whole blanched almonds (optional)for topping | 30 |
Combine the egg whites, caster sugar, Vanillezucker, and salt in a heatproof bowl. Set it over a pot of gently simmering water. The bowl should not touch the water. Whisk steadily until the sugar dissolves completely and the mixture feels warm to the touch, about 50 degrees if you have a thermometer, three to four minutes if you don't. Rub a drop between your fingers. If it feels grainy, keep going. The sugar needs to dissolve fully or your macaroons will weep and turn gritty.
While you warm the egg whites, set the Topfen in a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl and press it gently with a spoon. You want to remove excess liquid so it doesn't make the mixture too wet. Five minutes is enough. The Topfen should hold together like soft cream cheese, not run off the spoon. If you can only find quark, that works perfectly. If you can't find either, strain full-fat ricotta through muslin until it's dense and dry. It won't be identical, but it'll be close.
Take the bowl off the heat. Fold in the drained Topfen, desiccated coconut, and lemon zest using a spatula. Work gently but thoroughly. You want every strand of coconut coated. The mixture will be thick and slightly sticky, holding its shape when you scoop it. If it's so wet it slumps flat, your Topfen wasn't drained enough. Add a tablespoon or two more coconut to correct it. Let the mixture rest for five minutes. The coconut will absorb some of the moisture and the texture will firm up.
Preheat your oven to 170 degrees Celsius (150 fan). Line a baking tray with parchment. Lay the Oblaten wafers on the tray, spaced about two centimeters apart. Using two teaspoons or a small ice cream scoop, place a generous mound of the coconut mixture onto each Oblaten. Shape them into small domes with wet fingers. They should look like little snow-covered hills, rounded on top, sitting neatly on their wafer bases. Press a blanched almond into the peak of each one if you like. It's not strictly necessary, but it looks right.
Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through. The macaroons are done when the peaks turn pale golden and the edges of the coconut just begin to toast. The centers will still feel soft. Don't overbake them. The Topfen keeps the inside moist, and that's the entire point of this recipe. If you bake until they feel firm all the way through, you've gone too far and lost the advantage the Topfen gives you.
Let the macaroons cool completely on the tray. They firm up as they cool, setting into that perfect texture: a thin, lightly crisp shell with a soft, chewy, coconut-rich interior. Once cool, pack them into a tin lined with parchment, separating layers with more parchment. They keep beautifully for up to a week, getting slightly softer and more tender with each day. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 19g)
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