Salmonetes Fritos Andaluces

Salmonetes fritos are Andalusian, from the fry shops and home kitchens of the southern coast, where a good fish needs very little done to it. Small red mullet are sweet, delicate, and quick to cook. They are floured whole, fried hot and fast, and eaten with fingers, lemon if you like, bread if there is oil worth chasing.

The method that decides it is not clever. Dry the fish well, flour it lightly, and shake off more flour than feels sensible. Then fry in oil hot enough to set the skin at once. Too cool, and the mullet drinks oil. Too much flour, and you taste paste instead of fish. This is not cazón en adobo, not a battered fish, and not a plate to bury under sauce. The salmonete has its own work to do.

If you are far from an Andalusian market, look for small whole red mullet, rouget, or goatfish, cleaned but with the head on if you can bear it. If not, small whiting, sardines, or very small porgy will fry well, but they won't have that same sweet, almost shellfish taste. No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need fresh fish, dry hands, and oil that is properly hot. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.