
Chef Margarida
Cenouras à Algarvia
The marinated carrots of the Algarve, where garlic, paprika, and good azeite transform a humble root into something you'll make every week. Proof that the south knows how to treat vegetables.
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The chickpea and salt cod salad that appears on every Portuguese table during Lent and lingers through summer. Humble ingredients, honest cooking, the kind of dish that proves peasant food is genius food.
This is the salad that feeds Portugal during Lent, when the faithful abstain from meat and the grandmothers reach for what they know: bacalhau and grão. Chickpeas and salt cod. Two ingredients that sustained this country through centuries of fasting and scarcity, brought together in a dish so simple it barely qualifies as a recipe.
But that's the genius of it. Salada de grão com bacalhau doesn't try to impress. It doesn't need to. The bacalhau provides richness and depth. The chickpeas absorb the dressing and become something more than the sum of their parts. The hard-boiled eggs turn it into a complete meal. And the olive oil, good azeite from Alentejo, ties it all together.
Avó Leonor made this every Friday during Quaresma. She'd soak the bacalhau starting Sunday, cook the grão on Thursday night, and assemble everything Friday morning so the flavors had time to marry before lunch. The house would smell of garlic and parsley, and we'd eat it with fresh bread, still warm from the padaria, mopping up every drop of dressing from the plate.
At Mesa da Avó, I serve this salad in summer too, when something cool and substantial is what people want. It travels well. It improves as it sits. It's the dish you bring to a gathering when you want to feed people properly without standing over a stove. This is who we are: a people who can turn preserved fish and dried legumes into something you'll think about for days.
Salada de grão com bacalhau emerged from Portugal's Catholic fasting traditions, when meat was forbidden for nearly half the year. The pairing of salt cod with chickpeas dates to at least the 16th century, combining two preserved ingredients that could be stored indefinitely. Today it remains the definitive Lenten dish across all Portuguese regions, served cold in summer and at room temperature in winter.
Quantity
400g
soaked 2 days, water changed 3 times
Quantity
400g
soaked overnight
Quantity
1
Quantity
4 large
Quantity
1 medium
halved and sliced paper-thin
Quantity
2/3 cup, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 large bunch
roughly chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried salt cod (bacalhau)soaked 2 days, water changed 3 times | 400g |
| dried chickpeassoaked overnight | 400g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| eggs | 4 large |
| white onionhalved and sliced paper-thin | 1 medium |
| extra virgin olive oil (azeite) | 2/3 cup, plus more for drizzling |
| red wine vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| black olives | 1/2 cup |
| flat-leaf parsley (salsa)roughly chopped | 1 large bunch |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Drain the soaked cod and place it in a pot. Cover with fresh cold water and bring just to a simmer over medium heat. The moment you see the first bubbles rise, remove from heat immediately. Let the cod sit in the hot water for 10 minutes. It will cook gently from residual heat. Drain, let cool enough to handle, then flake into large pieces with your fingers, removing all skin and bones. The flakes should be generous, not shredded. Set aside.
If using dried chickpeas, drain and rinse them. Place in a large pot with the bay leaf, cover with fresh water by at least 8 centimeters, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until completely tender but not falling apart, about 1 to 1.5 hours depending on the age of your chickpeas. They should yield easily when pressed but hold their shape. Drain and discard the bay leaf. If using canned, simply drain and rinse well.
Place the eggs in a single layer in a pot and cover with cold water by 3 centimeters. Bring to a boil over high heat. The moment the water boils, remove from heat, cover, and let sit for exactly 10 minutes. Transfer eggs to ice water to stop the cooking. Peel when cool enough to handle, then quarter lengthwise. The yolks should be just set, still slightly golden in the center, not chalky.
In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, and minced garlic. Season with salt and pepper. The dressing should be bold because the chickpeas will absorb much of it. Taste it. It should make you want to dip bread into it.
Spread the warm chickpeas on a large serving platter. Warm chickpeas absorb the dressing better than cold. Scatter the flaked bacalhau over the chickpeas. Arrange the paper-thin onion slices throughout. Drizzle two-thirds of the dressing over everything and toss gently with your hands. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
Nestle the quartered eggs on top of the salad. Scatter the black olives throughout. Shower generously with chopped parsley. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the eggs and around the edges. Finish with a final flourish of your best olive oil and a crack of black pepper. Serve at room temperature with plenty of crusty bread for mopping up the juices.
1 serving (about 350g)
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