
Chef Ally
Artichokes Braised in Olive Oil
Tender baby artichokes surrendered to good olive oil, garlic, and lemon, cooked low and slow until the leaves soften and the hearts turn silky. A dish that asks you to slow down.
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Meaty Italian flat beans barely cooked, tossed with sweet golden shallots and finished with fruity olive oil. The kind of summer side dish that makes you wonder why anyone ever complicated vegetables.
Romano beans are summer in vegetable form. Flat and wide, with a meaty texture that holds up to heat, they deserve a place at the center of your table from July through September. At the farmers' market, look for pods that feel heavy and firm, bright green with no rust spots or yellowing. They should snap cleanly when bent. If a farmer will let you taste one raw, do it. A good Romano bean is sweet and grassy, with none of the squeaky bitterness of tired produce.
This is not a recipe so much as an approach. The beans do the work. You blanch them briefly, just until tender, then warm them in a skillet with shallots that have gone soft and golden in good olive oil. A squeeze of lemon at the end wakes everything up. That is all.
I learned to cook vegetables this way in France, where the quality of the ingredient determines the success of the dish before you even light the stove. When the beans are right, you get out of the way. You do not mask them with heavy sauces or drown them in butter. You let things taste of what they are.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
stem ends trimmed
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for finishing
Quantity
3 medium
thinly sliced into rings
Quantity
2 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
small handful
leaves only
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Romano beansstem ends trimmed | 1 1/2 pounds |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, plus more for finishing |
| shallotsthinly sliced into rings | 3 medium |
| garlicthinly sliced | 2 cloves |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)leaves only | small handful |
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt it generously, like the sea. While the water heats, look at your beans. They should be firm but not stiff, bright green with no yellowing, the pods plump and slightly glossy. Snap one in half. It should break cleanly with a satisfying crack. If it bends, the beans are tired.
Drop the beans into the boiling water. Cook for three to four minutes, tasting after three. You want them tender enough to yield pleasantly when bitten, but still with some resistance at the center. They should taste green and alive, not mushy or dull. Drain immediately and spread on a clean kitchen towel to dry.
Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot rings, separating them with your fingers as they fall into the pan. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until they soften and turn golden at the edges, about five minutes. They should smell sweet and faintly caramelized. Add the sliced garlic in the last minute, letting it turn fragrant but not brown.
Add the blanched beans to the skillet. Toss gently to coat with the oil and shallots, letting them warm through for two to three minutes. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Taste. The beans should taste of themselves, the shallots adding sweetness, the oil giving richness without heaviness.
Remove from heat. Squeeze the lemon juice over the beans and toss once more. Transfer to a warm serving dish. Drizzle with a final thread of good olive oil. Scatter the parsley leaves over the top if you like, though the beans are beautiful without them. Serve immediately, while everything is still warm and alive.
1 serving (about 200g)
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