Black-Eyed Peas with Greens

Black-eyed peas and greens belong to winter. They arrive at the market when the cold settles in, when the fields lie fallow except for these hardy crops that thrive in the chill. This is food that understands its season.

The tradition of eating black-eyed peas on New Year's Day stretches back generations in the South. Peas for prosperity, greens for wealth, pork for progress. I do not know if the luck is real. I know the nourishment is. A pot of peas simmered with smoked pork and tender greens has sustained families through hard winters and lean times. It asks for almost nothing: dried legumes, a ham hock, whatever greens look alive at the market, time.

At the farmers' market, look for dried black-eyed peas from the current harvest. They should feel heavy in your hand, with smooth unblemished skins. Old peas, the ones that have sat on a shelf for years, take forever to soften and never taste quite right. For greens, choose bunches with leaves that spring back when touched, deep green without yellowing or wilting. Collards are traditional, but turnip greens bring a pleasant bite. Use what looks best.

The technique here is patience, nothing more. You build a pot of richly flavored liquid, cook the peas until they yield, add the greens until they surrender. The smoked pork does most of the work. Your job is to get out of the way and let time do what time does.