
Chef Ally
Arugula with Shaved Pecorino and Lemon
Peppery arugula leaves tossed in nothing but fresh lemon and good olive oil, showered with curls of aged pecorino. A salad that proves the best cooking is knowing when to get out of the way.
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Earthy roasted beets paired with their own tender greens, scattered with toasted walnuts and crumbles of blue cheese, dressed in a simple sherry vinaigrette that lets everything taste of what it is.
Buy beets with their greens still attached. This is how you know they are fresh. The leaves should look alive, not wilted or yellowed, not stuffed in a plastic bag gasping for air. When you find beets like this at the market, you have found something worth cooking.
Most people throw away the greens. This is a waste, and it is also a missed opportunity. Beet greens taste like a cross between chard and spinach, with a mineral sweetness that echoes the root. Sautéed quickly in good olive oil with a clove of garlic, they become tender and silky. Served alongside the roasted beets, they tell the whole story of the vegetable.
The technique here is simple because it needs to be. Roast the beets until they are tender and their sugars have concentrated. Toast the walnuts until fragrant. Make a vinaigrette with sherry vinegar and olive oil. The blue cheese is optional, but I love how its sharpness cuts through the earthiness. This is a salad that improves with thirty minutes of sitting, letting the flavors marry.
Quantity
2 pounds (about 4 medium)
Quantity
3 tablespoons, divided
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
2 ounces (about 1/2 cup)
crumbled
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beets with greens attached | 2 pounds (about 4 medium) |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, divided |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| garlicthinly sliced | 2 cloves |
| walnut halves | 1/2 cup |
| sherry vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| good olive oil | 4 tablespoons |
| blue cheese (optional)crumbled | 2 ounces (about 1/2 cup) |
Preheat your oven to 400F. Cut the greens from the beets, leaving about an inch of stem attached to each root. Set the greens aside. Scrub the beets gently under running water to remove any dirt, but do not peel them. The skin protects the flesh during roasting and slips off easily afterward.
Place the beets on a large piece of aluminum foil. Drizzle with one tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt. Wrap the foil around the beets, sealing the edges to create a packet. Roast until a knife slides easily into the center of the largest beet, 45 minutes to one hour depending on their size. Unwrap and let cool until you can handle them.
While the beets roast, wash the greens thoroughly in several changes of cold water. Dirt hides in the stems and creases. Shake off excess water but do not spin them completely dry. Cut the stems from the leaves. Slice the stems into half-inch pieces and roughly chop the leaves. Keep them separate because they cook at different rates.
Spread the walnuts in a single layer in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant and slightly darkened, about five minutes. Watch them carefully. Walnuts go from toasted to burned quickly. Transfer to a plate to cool, then roughly chop.
In a small bowl or jar, whisk together the sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, and a pinch of salt. Slowly drizzle in the four tablespoons of olive oil while whisking constantly until emulsified. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Good vinegar and good oil need very little else.
When the beets are cool enough to handle, use a paper towel or your fingers to slip off the skins. They should release easily. Cut the beets into wedges or thick slices, whatever feels right. Place them in a bowl and toss with half the vinaigrette while still warm. Warm food absorbs dressing better than cold.
Heat the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and cook until fragrant but not browned, about thirty seconds. Add the stems first and cook for two minutes. Add the leaves with whatever water still clings to them. Season with salt. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the leaves are wilted and tender but still have some life, two to three minutes more.
Arrange the sautéed greens on a platter or individual plates. Nestle the dressed beet wedges among the greens. Scatter the toasted walnuts and crumbled blue cheese over everything. Drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette. Let the salad sit for a few minutes before serving. This is a dish that improves when the flavors have a moment to meet.
1 serving (about 225g)
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