
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Rancho Canario belongs to the Canary Islands: chickpeas, potatoes, salted pork, and thick noodles in a spoon stew carried by a late pimentón sofrito.
Rancho Canario is from the Canary Islands, and it is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, in the plainest and most useful sense: chickpeas, potatoes, salted pork, and thick noodles in a broth that eats like a stew. What makes it Canarian is that last pull of sofrito, the slow onion base with garlic and pimentón, stirred in near the end so the pot turns warm, red-gold, and round without becoming heavy.
The step that decides it is order. The chickpeas must be tender before the potatoes and fideos go in, because noodles keep drinking long after you think they're done. Add them too early and you get paste. Add them at the end, keep the pot loose, and the stew lands where it should: thick enough for a spoon to stand a moment, still brothy enough to be kind.
If you can't find Canarian salted pork ribs, use a piece of salt pork or unsmoked bacon and a small pork rib or shoulder piece. It won't taste exactly of the islands, but it will give you the same salt, fat, and backbone. No hace falta haber pisado España. Weigh it, soak what needs soaking, and don't rush the chickpeas. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Rancho Canario belongs to the Canary Islands' inland home kitchens, where a filling pot of chickpeas, potatoes, meat scraps, and noodles could feed a household from a modest larder. The salted pork points to preservation, and the fideos show the old habit of stretching a stew with pasta once the legumes had done their work. Each island and family keeps its own balance, sometimes with chicken or beef, but the heart remains chickpeas, potatoes, noodles, and a pimentón-scented finish.
Quantity
300g
soaked overnight
Quantity
300g
soaked overnight and rinsed
Quantity
150g
in one piece
Quantity
1
Quantity
1.8 liters, plus more as needed
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into 3cm chunks
Quantity
120g
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
4
minced
Quantity
1 medium
grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
only if needed
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried chickpeassoaked overnight | 300g |
| salted pork ribssoaked overnight and rinsed | 300g |
| pork shoulder or pork bellyin one piece | 150g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| cold water | 1.8 liters, plus more as needed |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into 3cm chunks | 500g |
| thick soup noodles, fideos gruesos | 120g |
| olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| garlic clovesminced | 4 |
| ripe tomatograted | 1 medium |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/2 teaspoon |
| saffron threads (optional) | 1 pinch |
| salt | only if needed |
| black pepper | to taste |
The night before, cover the chickpeas with plenty of cold water. In another bowl, cover the salted pork ribs with cold water too, changing that water once if they are very salty. This is not fussing. It is what lets the chickpeas cook evenly and the pork season the pot instead of bullying it.
Drain the chickpeas and pork. Put them in a heavy pot with the fresh pork, bay leaf, and 1.8 liters cold water. Bring slowly to a simmer, skim the grey foam, then lower the heat and cook gently until the chickpeas are nearly tender, about 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours. Keep them covered by liquid, adding hot water when needed.
While the chickpeas soften, warm the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onion with a pinch of salt over low heat until dark gold and sweet, 15 to 18 minutes. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then the grated tomato, and cook until the oil shows at the edges. Take the pan off the heat before stirring in the pimentón, cumin, and saffron, if using, so the pimentón blooms without scorching.
When the chickpeas are tender but not collapsing, lift out the pork pieces, cut the meat into bite-size pieces, and return it to the pot. Add the potatoes and simmer until they are just tender at the edges, about 15 minutes. The broth should still look generous, because the noodles are coming and they are greedy.
Stir in the sofrito, then add the thick fideos. Simmer 8 to 10 minutes, stirring now and then so the noodles don't catch on the bottom. Stop while the pot is still a little looser than you want; the noodles keep drinking as the rancho rests.
Take the pot off the heat and let it stand 10 minutes. Taste only now for salt, because the pork has been seasoning the stew all along. Finish with black pepper and serve in deep bowls, chickpeas, potato, pork, and noodles in every spoonful. Tal como se hace allí, plain and filling.
1 serving (about 520g)
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