
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Caldo de Papas Canario is the Canary Islands' plain potato broth with garlic, onion, tomato, green pepper, plenty of cilantro, and an egg poached right at the end.
Caldo de Papas Canario belongs to the Canary Islands, and it is as humble as a supper can be: potatoes, garlic, onion, a little tomato and green pepper, water, cilantro, and an egg poached in the broth at the end. What makes it Canarian is that green, clean hit of cilantro with the papas, not a heavy meat stock or a stew thickened until it forgets it was a broth.
The method that decides it is the base. Cook the onion, pepper, garlic, and tomato slowly in olive oil until the tomato loses its raw edge and the onion turns soft and sweet. It is a small sofrito, the slow onion base, and if you rush it the broth tastes watery no matter how many potatoes you add. Then the papas go in, broken a little at the edges so their starch clouds the broth just enough.
Use waxy potatoes if you can, the kind that hold their shape but give a little body to the liquid. If you are far from the islands, Yukon Gold or any small yellow potato will do; the broth will be a touch creamier and less firm, and that is no tragedy. Cilantro is not parsley here. Parsley makes a different soup, polite but wrong.
Poach the eggs gently so the whites set and the yolks stay soft, then serve each bowl with a spoonful of broth over the egg and a little more cilantro. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, quick and cheap, but not careless. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Caldo de papas belongs to the everyday cooking of the Canary Islands, where potatoes became one of the great household staples after crossing from the Americas through Atlantic trade. The dish reflects an island larder built from what kept well and what grew close to home: papas, onions, garlic, herbs, and eggs from the yard. Cilantro, used with a freer hand in the Canaries than in much of the peninsula, gives the broth its local character and separates it from the heavier potato soups of inland Spain.
Quantity
600g
peeled and cut into rough 3cm chunks
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small
finely chopped
Quantity
3
minced
Quantity
1 medium
grated, skins discarded
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1.2 litres
Quantity
25g
stems and leaves chopped, divided
Quantity
1
Quantity
4
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into rough 3cm chunks | 600g |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| green pepperfinely chopped | 1 small |
| garlic clovesminced | 3 |
| ripe tomatograted, skins discarded | 1 medium |
| extra virgin olive oil | 4 tablespoons |
| ground cumin | 1 teaspoon |
| sweet pimentón | 1/4 teaspoon |
| water | 1.2 litres |
| fresh cilantrostems and leaves chopped, divided | 25g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| large eggs | 4 |
| fine salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper (optional) | to taste |
Peel the potatoes and cut them into rough 3cm chunks, turning the knife at the end of each cut so some edges break instead of slicing cleanly. Those broken edges release starch into the broth and give it a little body without making it heavy. Pésalo, no lo adivines: 600g gives four proper bowls.
Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion, green pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until soft and sweet but not browned. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add the grated tomato and cook 5 minutes more, until the tomato thickens and the oil begins to show at the edges.
Stir in the cumin and sweet pimentón for 20 seconds, just until fragrant. Do not let the pimentón catch on the bottom or it turns bitter, and then the whole pot tastes harsh. Add half the chopped cilantro, including the tender stems, and stir once.
Add the potatoes, bay leaf, water, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, for 22 to 28 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pressed with a spoon and the broth has turned lightly cloudy. Taste for salt. It should taste simple but awake, not flat.
Lower the heat so the broth barely moves. Crack each egg into a small cup, then slide it into a quiet space between the potatoes. Cover the pot and cook 4 to 5 minutes, until the whites are set and the yolks are still soft. If you like the yolks firm, give them 2 minutes more, but do not boil hard or the eggs turn ragged.
Take out the bay leaf. Stir in most of the remaining cilantro, keeping a little for the bowls. Ladle potatoes and broth into deep bowls with one egg in each, spoon broth over the egg, and finish with the last cilantro and a turn of black pepper if you like it. Serve at once, with bread for the broth.
1 serving (about 560g)
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