
Chef Isabel
Caldo de Millo Canario
Caldo de Millo is the Canary Islands' clear corn-cob broth: piñas de millo, papas, calabaza, and cilantro simmered gently until the cobs sweeten the water and the bowl stays light.
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Garbanzas compuestas are Canary Islands spoon food: large chickpeas, a dark tomato and pimentón sofrito, potatoes, and a little pork cooked until the broth clings to every spoonful.
Garbanzas compuestas are from Canarias, and the word matters: garbanzas are the larger chickpeas the islands like for this stew, cooked with a garlic, tomato, pepper, and pimentón sofrito, plus a little pork to season the pot. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, built to feed a table without fuss. It is not a thin chickpea soup. It should be thick, red-gold, and glossy, with the potatoes soft at the edges and the chickpeas holding their shape.
The method that decides it is the sofrito, the slow onion base. Cook the onion and pepper low until they collapse, then add the tomato and let it reduce until the oil shows at the edge. That is where the stew gets its sweetness and body. Rush it and you will still have chickpeas, yes, but not garbanzas compuestas as they are eaten there.
If you are far from the islands, use large dried chickpeas from a shop with good turnover. If you can't find Spanish chorizo, use a mild cured chorizo with pimentón, not a fresh sausage, and know the broth will be less smoky. No hace falta haber pisado España. Soak them overnight, cook them gently, and keep the sofrito patient. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Garbanzas compuestas belong to the Canary Islands, especially the home and bar cooking of Tenerife and Gran Canaria, where chickpeas were stretched with preserved pork, potatoes, tomato, and spices from the Atlantic larder. The dish reflects the islands' habit of making a filling pot from what keeps well: dried legumes, salted or cured meat, potatoes, garlic, pimentón, bay, and thyme. It often appears as an enyesque, a small shared plate, but at home it is plainly a stew, thick enough to stand as the meal.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
250g
cut into small pieces
Quantity
150g
cut into 2cm pieces
Quantity
150g
sliced thickly
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into 3cm chunks
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
400g
grated if fresh
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1.5 litres, plus more as needed
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large dried chickpeassoaked overnight | 500g |
| pork ribscut into small pieces | 250g |
| panceta or bacon slabcut into 2cm pieces | 150g |
| Spanish cured chorizosliced thickly | 150g |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into 3cm chunks | 500g |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| red pepperfinely chopped | 1 |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| ripe tomatoes, or canned crushed tomatoesgrated if fresh | 400g |
| dry white wine | 80ml |
| olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| dried thyme | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| water or light chicken stock | 1.5 litres, plus more as needed |
| salt | to taste |
| chopped parsley (optional) | 2 tablespoons |
Put the chickpeas in a large bowl, cover them with plenty of cold water, and leave them overnight. Drain them before cooking. This is not the place to guess; a full soak lets the centres soften before the skins split. Pésalo, no lo adivines.
Put the drained chickpeas in a heavy pot with the pork ribs, panceta, bay leaves, thyme, black pepper, and 1.5 litres water or light stock. Bring it slowly to a boil, skim the grey foam, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook until the chickpeas are almost tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes, depending on their age.
While the chickpeas cook, warm the olive oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and red pepper with a pinch of salt and cook slowly for 18 to 20 minutes, until soft, sweet, and dark gold at the edges. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then the grated tomato, and cook until it thickens and the oil begins to show around the pan. That slow reduction is what gives the stew its body.
Stir the pimentón and cumin into the sofrito off the heat for a few seconds, just until fragrant. Put the pan back on the heat, pour in the white wine, and let it bubble down for 2 minutes. Do not scorch the pimentón; burnt pimentón turns bitter and follows you all the way to the table.
Scrape the sofrito into the chickpea pot. Add the sliced chorizo and the potatoes, then add a little more water if the stew looks dry; the liquid should just cover everything. Simmer gently, uncovered or partly covered, until the potatoes are tender and the broth is thick and red-gold, about 30 to 40 minutes. Shake the pot now and then instead of stirring hard, so the chickpeas stay whole.
Taste for salt only at the end, because the pork and chorizo bring their own. Rest the pot off the heat for 10 minutes so the potatoes loosen a little starch and the broth clings to the chickpeas. Serve in deep bowls with parsley if you like, and bread for the sauce left at the bottom. Tal como se hace allí, simple and useful.
1 serving (about 610g)
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