
Chef Dean
Avgolemono
A bowl of silken, lemony comfort from the Greek kitchen, where golden chicken broth meets a velvety cloud of egg and citrus. This is soup that heals what ails you, one spoonful at a time.
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The most honest of French soups: sweet leeks and tender potatoes simmered in good stock and pureed into velvet, finished with cream and served with nothing but chives and a warm spoon.
This soup has two lives. Served hot, the French call it potage Parmentier, named for the man who convinced a skeptical nation that potatoes were fit for human consumption. Served cold, it becomes vichyssoise, supposedly invented at the Ritz-Carlton in New York by a homesick French chef who remembered how his mother cooled her potato soup on summer evenings. Both stories are probably embellished. The soup itself needs no mythology.
What it needs is good leeks. Truly good leeks, the fat white stalks with just a whisper of pale green, sweated in butter until they surrender every trace of sharpness and become something closer to candy. This takes time. Most recipes rush this step and produce soup that tastes thin and vegetal. Give your leeks twenty minutes of gentle heat and they'll reward you with depth you cannot achieve any other way.
The potatoes matter too, though less than you might think. They provide body and that characteristic silky texture, but they're supporting actors here. Yukon Golds work beautifully, their golden flesh adding subtle richness. Whatever variety you choose, cut them uniform so they cook evenly and puree without leaving grainy pockets.
I've taught this soup to countless students who arrived convinced that French cuisine required culinary school and left knowing they could produce something genuinely elegant from ingredients found at any grocery store. This is peasant food refined by technique, nothing more. The technique is simple. The result is sublime.
Quantity
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick)
Quantity
4 (about 2 pounds)
white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 pounds
peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
Quantity
6 cups
homemade or quality low-sodium
Quantity
2
Quantity
4 sprigs
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
finely snipped
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) |
| large leekswhite and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced | 4 (about 2 pounds) |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 medium |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| Yukon Gold potatoespeeled and cut into 1-inch cubes | 2 pounds |
| chicken stockhomemade or quality low-sodium | 6 cups |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| fresh thyme | 4 sprigs |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| white pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| fresh chivesfinely snipped | 2 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt (optional) | for finishing |
Trim the root ends and dark green tops from your leeks, saving those dark parts for stock if you wish. Halve each leek lengthwise and slice into half-moons about a quarter-inch thick. Transfer to a large bowl of cold water and swish vigorously. Leeks hide dirt between their layers like secrets. Lift the slices out, leaving grit behind, and repeat until the water runs clear. Spin dry in a salad spinner or pat with towels.
Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and onion, stirring to coat in fat. Here is where patience becomes flavor. Cook gently for fifteen to twenty minutes, stirring occasionally, until the alliums turn completely soft and translucent. You want no color whatsoever. The moment they begin to brown, you've changed the character of your soup. Add the garlic in the final minute, cooking just until fragrant.
Add the potato cubes to the pot, stirring to combine with the softened leeks. Pour in the stock. It should cover the vegetables by about an inch. If you're short, add water to compensate. Tuck in the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Season with salt and white pepper. White pepper disappears into the pale soup while black pepper would leave unwanted specks.
Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce to medium-low. Cook uncovered for twenty-five to thirty minutes, until the potatoes offer no resistance when pierced with a paring knife. They should be falling-apart soft. The leeks will have nearly dissolved into the broth. Remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme stems.
For the smoothest result, puree in batches using a standard blender, filling no more than halfway and holding a towel over the lid. Hot liquids expand violently and will erupt if you're careless. Blend each batch for a full sixty seconds until absolutely smooth. Alternatively, use an immersion blender directly in the pot, though the texture will be slightly less refined. Return the soup to a clean pot if using a standard blender.
Return the soup to medium-low heat. Stir in the heavy cream and warm through for five minutes, but do not let it boil. Taste and adjust seasoning generously. Potato soups can absorb remarkable amounts of salt. The flavor should be round and full, the leek's gentle sweetness balanced by the cream's richness.
Ladle into warmed bowls. A cold bowl will steal heat from your soup in seconds. Finish each portion with a scattering of fresh chives and a few flakes of good sea salt. For a more elegant presentation, add a small swirl of cream and drag a knife through it. Serve immediately while steam still rises from the surface.
1 serving (about 360g)
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