
Chef Dean
Avgolemono
A bowl of silken, lemony comfort from the Greek kitchen, where golden chicken broth meets a velvety cloud of egg and citrus. This is soup that heals what ails you, one spoonful at a time.
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A bowlful of pure American comfort: velvety soup loaded with tender broccoli and an almost indecent amount of sharp cheddar, the kind of honest cooking that warms you from the inside out.
This soup belongs to the American cafeteria tradition, right alongside tomato soup and grilled cheese. But somewhere between the school lunch line and the bread bowl at the mall, broccoli cheddar soup lost its way. It became a vehicle for processed cheese and frozen vegetable mush. We're taking it back.
The foundation is a proper roux, the French mother technique that transforms butter and flour into the soul of a sauce. Build your aromatics slowly. Let onion and celery and those broccoli stalks everyone throws away contribute their sweetness to the base. Add good stock, whether homemade or the best store-bought you can find. Then comes the broccoli, cooked until just tender, and finally the cheese, stirred in off the heat so it melts into silk rather than seizing into rubber.
I've served this soup to friends recovering from surgery, to children suspicious of vegetables, and to myself on gray November evenings when the only cure for the darkness is something warm and substantial. It never disappoints. The sharp cheddar asserts itself without apology, the broccoli provides honest vegetable flavor, and the whole bowl reminds you why comfort food earned its name.
Quantity
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick)
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
2
diced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds (about 2 large heads)
Quantity
12 ounces (about 3 cups)
grated
Quantity
4 ounces (about 1 cup)
grated
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 medium |
| celery stalksdiced | 2 |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| all-purpose flour | 1/4 cup |
| chicken stock or vegetable stock | 4 cups |
| whole milk | 2 cups |
| broccoli | 1 1/2 pounds (about 2 large heads) |
| sharp cheddar cheesegrated | 12 ounces (about 3 cups) |
| white cheddar cheesegrated | 4 ounces (about 1 cup) |
| dry mustard powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/8 teaspoon |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/8 teaspoon |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Separate the broccoli into two components: the crowns and the stalks. Cut the crowns into bite-sized florets, keeping them uniform so they cook evenly. Peel the tough outer layer from the stalks using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, then chop the tender inner core into small pieces. The stalks will disappear into the soup base while the florets provide texture. You should have about four cups of florets and one cup of chopped stalks.
Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the diced onion, celery, and chopped broccoli stalks. Season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften and the onion turns translucent, eight to ten minutes. The kitchen will smell sweet and vegetal. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about one minute more. Never let garlic brown, or it turns bitter.
Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for two minutes. This is your roux, the foundation of the soup's body. The flour must cook to eliminate its raw, pasty taste, but you don't want color here. Keep it moving. The mixture will look thick and somewhat clumpy, coating the vegetables in a pale paste.
Pour in the stock slowly, about one cup at a time, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Each addition should be fully incorporated before adding the next. The mixture will seize and thicken dramatically at first, then relax as more liquid goes in. Once all the stock is incorporated and smooth, add the milk in the same gradual fashion. Bring everything to a gentle simmer. Aggressive boiling will cause the milk to break.
Add the broccoli florets to the simmering soup. Cook uncovered until the florets are tender but still hold their shape, twelve to fifteen minutes. Test by pressing a floret against the side of the pot with your spoon. It should yield easily but not disintegrate. The soup base will thicken slightly as it simmers.
Here you have a choice. For a chunkier soup, leave it as is. For the classic creamy texture with some broccoli pieces remaining, use an immersion blender to puree about half the soup directly in the pot, leaving visible florets throughout. For a completely smooth soup, blend everything. I prefer the middle path: enough body to coat a spoon, enough texture to remind you what you're eating.
Reduce heat to low. Stir in the mustard powder, cayenne, nutmeg, and Worcestershire sauce. These background players won't announce themselves but they'll make the cheese taste more like itself. The cayenne provides warmth without heat. The nutmeg is a classic pairing with cheese sauces, barely perceptible but essential. Taste the base now and adjust salt.
Remove the pot from heat entirely. This is critical. Add the grated cheeses in three additions, stirring constantly until each handful melts completely before adding the next. The residual heat will melt the cheese without breaking it. If you add cheese to boiling soup, the proteins seize, the fat separates, and you get a greasy, grainy mess instead of velvet. Patience here determines whether your soup is restaurant-worthy or disappointing.
Return the pot to the lowest heat setting just to warm through if needed. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The soup should coat a spoon in a thick, glossy layer. Ladle into warmed bowls and serve immediately. A grinding of black pepper over each bowl and perhaps a few extra shreds of cheddar melting on top complete the picture.
1 serving (about 285g)
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