
Chef Dean
Avgolemono
A bowl of silken, lemony comfort from the Greek kitchen, where golden chicken broth meets a velvety cloud of egg and citrus. This is soup that heals what ails you, one spoonful at a time.
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A smoky, brick-red broth alive with charred tomatoes and toasted chiles, ladled over shredded chicken and crowned with a mountain of crispy tortilla strips, cool avocado, sharp cheese, and a generous squeeze of lime.
This soup belongs to the border, that fertile culinary territory where Mexican tradition meets Texas pragmatism. It emerged from the need to stretch ingredients and feed families well on little. What started as a way to use stale tortillas became one of America's great comfort foods.
The foundation is everything. You'll char tomatoes and onions until they blacken in spots, toast dried chiles until they perfume your kitchen with their earthy heat. These steps cannot be rushed or skipped. The depth of flavor in your finished soup depends entirely on how bravely you commit to building that base. Pale, timid vegetables make pale, timid soup.
I've watched home cooks approach this recipe with unnecessary fear. They worry about dried chiles, about charring, about the whole production of it. But this is fundamentally simple food, peasant food elevated by technique rather than expense. Once you understand the principles, you'll make it from memory, adjusting heat and garnishes to your family's taste. That's how recipes should work.
Quantity
2 pounds
Quantity
8 cups
Quantity
1 medium
quartered
Quantity
6
smashed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
6
Quantity
1 medium
halved
Quantity
4
unpeeled
Quantity
2
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
2
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
1, plus 1 tablespoon adobo sauce
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 can (15 ounces)
drained and rinsed
Quantity
1 cup
fresh or frozen
Quantity
2, juiced, plus wedges for serving
Quantity
1/4 cup
chopped
Quantity
8
Quantity
as needed
Quantity
2
diced
Quantity
8 ounces
crumbled or shredded
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
for garnish
Quantity
for garnish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs | 2 pounds |
| chicken stock, preferably homemade | 8 cups |
| white onion (for poaching)quartered | 1 medium |
| garlic cloves (for poaching)smashed | 6 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| whole black peppercorns | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| Roma tomatoes | 6 |
| white onion (for charring)halved | 1 medium |
| garlic cloves (for charring)unpeeled | 4 |
| dried ancho chilesstemmed and seeded | 2 |
| dried guajillo chilesstemmed and seeded | 2 |
| chipotle pepper in adobo | 1, plus 1 tablespoon adobo sauce |
| ground cumin | 1 tablespoon |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| vegetable oil | 2 tablespoons |
| black beansdrained and rinsed | 1 can (15 ounces) |
| corn kernelsfresh or frozen | 1 cup |
| limes | 2, juiced, plus wedges for serving |
| fresh cilantrochopped | 1/4 cup |
| corn tortillas | 8 |
| vegetable oil for frying | as needed |
| ripe avocadosdiced | 2 |
| queso fresco or Monterey Jackcrumbled or shredded | 8 ounces |
| Mexican crema or sour cream | 1 cup |
| fresh cilantro leaves | for garnish |
| sliced jalapeños (optional) | for garnish |
Place chicken thighs in a large pot with the stock, quartered onion, smashed garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. The moment you see lazy bubbles, reduce the heat. A rolling boil toughens chicken. Poach for 25 to 30 minutes until the meat releases easily from the bone and an instant-read thermometer reads 165°F in the thickest part.
Transfer chicken to a cutting board. Strain the poaching liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl, discarding the aromatics. You now have enriched stock. When chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discard skin and bones. Shred the meat into bite-sized pieces using two forks or your hands. Set aside.
Heat a large cast iron skillet or comal over high heat until nearly smoking. Add tomatoes, onion halves (cut side down), and unpeeled garlic cloves. Let them sit undisturbed. You want blackened spots, actual char, not just browning. Turn occasionally until all sides show dark patches, about 10 to 12 minutes total. The tomatoes will collapse and blister. The onion will soften. The garlic skins will be papery and scorched. This is correct.
In the same hot skillet, press the ancho and guajillo chiles flat against the surface for 15 to 20 seconds per side. They should become fragrant, pliable, and slightly darker. Do not let them smoke or turn truly black. Burnt chiles taste bitter and acrid. Transfer toasted chiles to a bowl and cover with hot water. Let them rehydrate for 20 minutes until soft and pliant.
Squeeze garlic from its papery skins into a blender. Add charred tomatoes, charred onion, drained rehydrated chiles, chipotle with adobo sauce, cumin, and oregano. Add one cup of the enriched poaching stock. Blend on high until completely smooth, about 90 seconds. The mixture should be brick-red and slightly thick. Taste it. It should be deeply savory, moderately spicy, with a pleasant smokiness.
Heat vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium-high heat. When shimmering, carefully pour in the blended chile mixture. Stand back. It will sputter and spit. Fry the paste, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes. You're cooking out the raw edge and concentrating flavors. The color will deepen. The aroma will intensify. This step transforms the soup from bright and thin to complex and full-bodied.
Pour in the remaining enriched stock. Stir well, scraping any caramelized bits from the bottom. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low. Let the soup bubble gently for 20 minutes. The flavors need time to marry. Taste and adjust salt generously. Under-seasoned tortilla soup is a disappointment.
Stir in the shredded chicken, black beans, and corn. Simmer for another 5 minutes until everything is heated through. Remove from heat and stir in lime juice and chopped cilantro. The lime brightens everything. Don't skip it.
Stack tortillas and slice into quarter-inch strips. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of half an inch in a heavy skillet. Heat over medium-high until a strip sizzles immediately when added, about 350°F. Fry strips in batches, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer to paper towels and season with salt while hot.
Ladle hot soup into deep bowls. Top generously with crispy tortilla strips, pushing some down into the broth and leaving others perched on top. Add diced avocado, a generous scatter of cheese, a drizzle of crema, fresh cilantro leaves, and jalapeño slices if you like heat. Serve immediately with lime wedges on the side. The contrast of hot broth and cool garnishes is essential to the experience.
1 serving (about 385g)
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