Portokalopita of Argolida (Πορτοκαλόπιτα Αργολίδας)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •rectangular metal tapsi or baking pan, 23 x 33cm
• •low saucepan, 20cm
• •fine citrus grater
• •wooden skewer for piercing syrup cakes

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the syrup

   Put 400g sugar, the water, 250ml orange juice, orange peel, cinnamon, and the thin orange slices if using into a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer 7 minutes, just until the syrup is clear and lightly coats a spoon. Stir in the lemon juice and leave it to cool completely.

   The syrup must be cold when it meets the hot cake. Make it first and you won't be standing with a baked tray and a warm syrup that needs waiting.
2. 2

   Dry the phyllo

   Separate the phyllo sheets and spread them over the table, a clean counter, or two trays. Leave 1 to 2 hours, turning once, until they feel dry and papery, or dry them in a 100°C oven for 20 to 25 minutes. When cool, crush them into rough pieces, not powder.

   Don't leave the sheets stacked. The middle stays soft, then clumps in the batter, and portokalopita forgives many things before it forgives wet phyllo.
3. 3

   Prepare the pan

   Heat the oven to 170°C. Oil a 23 x 33cm metal tapsi or baking pan with 10ml oil, paying attention to the corners. Keep the crushed phyllo close to the bowl so it can go in quickly once the batter is ready.

4. 4

   Whisk the batter

   In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and 200g sugar for 2 minutes, until paler and slightly thick. Whisk in the yogurt, oil, 120ml orange juice, orange zest, vanilla, baking powder, and salt. The batter should look loose and speckled with zest.

5. 5

   Fold in phyllo

   Add the dry phyllo a handful at a time, lifting and folding so every piece is coated before the next handful goes in. Don't dump it all at once. Let the mixture stand 10 minutes, then fold once more and spread it evenly in the prepared pan.

6. 6

   Bake the cake

   Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until the top is deep golden, the center springs back lightly, and a skewer comes out without raw batter. If the top browns too quickly after 35 minutes, cover it loosely with foil.

7. 7

   Soak with syrup

   As soon as the cake comes out, pierce it all over with a skewer and ladle the cold syrup over it slowly, corner to corner. Add the syruped orange slices on top if you used them. Stop fiddling now; the tray needs time to drink.

8. 8

   Rest and serve

   Leave the portokalopita at room temperature for at least 2 hours before cutting. Serve in squares, plain, with a spoonful of strained yogurt if you like the contrast. Refrigerate leftovers after the first day and bring pieces back to room temperature before serving.

Chef Tips

• •Use unwaxed oranges that smell bright before you cut them. If the fruit gives you nothing at the market, make another sweet today. Sourcing wins.
• •Full-fat strained yogurt gives the crumb its soft set. Thin yogurt brings extra water, and the cake turns heavy before the syrup even reaches it.
• •If your olive oil is strong and peppery, use sunflower oil. The fat should keep the cake tender, not fight the orange.
• •This isn't nistisimo (fasting food) because of eggs and yogurt. For Lent, make semolina halvas or spoon sweets; don't strip this cake of its binder and call it the same dish.

Advance Preparation

• •The syrup can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept cold; set it out while the cake bakes so it is cool, not icy.
• •Thaw frozen phyllo overnight in the refrigerator, then let it come to room temperature in its package before opening so the sheets don't crack.
• •The phyllo can be dried the night before and kept loosely covered in a dry place.
• •The finished cake is best after 2 to 4 hours of resting and holds 3 days, covered and chilled after the first day.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 190g)