
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Porra Antequerana is Andalucía in a bowl, from Antequera in Málaga: thicker than gazpacho, sturdier than salmorejo, and built from ripe tomato, bread, pepper, garlic, and oil.
Porra Antequerana belongs to Antequera, in Málaga, Andalucía, and it is not just a thicker gazpacho. It is a cold tomato purée, dense enough to hold a spoon, made with ripe pear tomatoes, day-old bread, green pepper, garlic, vinegar, and good olive oil. Then come the toppings: hard-boiled egg, jamón, and tuna. That is what makes it porra, not its neighbour's salmorejo.
The method that decides it is the bread. Use a firm white country loaf with a close crumb, soak it with the chopped tomatoes until it drinks their juice, then blend hard before the oil goes in. Add the olive oil slowly while the blender runs, and the porra turns thick, pale red, and smooth. Add water and you have walked away from the dish. Dry line, but true.
If you are far from Antequera, use Roma or plum tomatoes when they are ripe and heavy. For the bread, choose day-old white country bread, not a sharp sourdough and not soft sandwich slices. The texture will be a little lighter than pan cateto, the dense Andaluz loaf, but it will hold. No hace falta haber pisado España. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and chill it well. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Porra Antequerana comes from Antequera, in the inland comarca of Málaga, where bread, olive oil, garlic, vinegar, and the summer tomato made a cold, filling meal for hot working days. Its name is tied to the porra, the heavy pestle once used to pound the mixture by hand before blenders made the work easier. It sits in the Andalusian family of bread-thickened cold soups, beside Córdoba's salmorejo and the older white mazamorras, but the green pepper and the near-solid texture mark it as Antequera's own.
Quantity
1kg
cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
250g
crust removed, crumb torn
Quantity
1 small
seeded and chopped
Quantity
1 small clove
germ removed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
120ml, plus more to finish
Quantity
10g, plus more to taste
Quantity
2
hard-boiled
Quantity
80g
finely chopped
Quantity
120g
drained in large flakes
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| very ripe pear tomatoes or Roma tomatoescored and roughly chopped | 1kg |
| day-old white country breadcrust removed, crumb torn | 250g |
| green Italian pepperseeded and chopped | 1 small |
| garlicgerm removed | 1 small clove |
| vinagre de Jerez or good wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| extra virgin olive oil | 120ml, plus more to finish |
| fine sea salt | 10g, plus more to taste |
| large eggshard-boiled | 2 |
| jamón serranofinely chopped | 80g |
| tuna in olive oildrained in large flakes | 120g |
Put the eggs in a small pan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes, then cool in cold water, peel, and chop. Keep them chilled while you make the porra.
Put the chopped tomatoes, green pepper, garlic, vinegar, and salt in a large bowl. Add the torn bread and press it down so it drinks the tomato juices. Leave it 15 minutes. This is the step that gives porra its body; dry bread blended too soon leaves little crumbs, and too much water makes a thin cousin of the dish.
Scrape everything into a strong blender and blend until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. Stop and scrape the sides if you need to. The colour should turn even and the texture should look like a thick cream, not a salsa.
With the blender running, pour in the olive oil slowly in a thin stream. Let it run another minute after the oil is in. The porra should thicken and turn glossy, pale tomato-red, and heavy enough that a spoon leaves a trail. Taste for salt and vinegar.
Scrape the porra into a covered bowl and chill for at least 2 hours. Taste again cold, because the fridge dulls salt and vinegar. If it has tightened too much, stir it with a spoon; do not loosen it with water unless it truly will not move.
Spoon the cold porra into shallow bowls, making a soft hollow in the middle. Finish with chopped egg, flakes of tuna, chopped jamón, and a thin thread of olive oil. Serve with bread or a spoon, and eat it cold, almost like a meal.
1 serving (about 440g)
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