
Chef Dimitra
Greek Macedonian Myrmigkato (Μυρμηγκάτο Μακεδονίας)
Myrmigkato from Greek Macedonia is the home cook's ant cake: a lemon-syrup sponge scattered with dark chocolate, plain on purpose and generous enough for coffee or a crowded table.
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Politiko Samali is dense semolina cake from the City and Smyrna, scented with Chios mastic, scored before baking, and soaked until the syrup settles into glossy, clean slices.
Politiko Samali is the semolina syrup cake of Constantinople and Smyrna, dense by design, cut in diamonds, each one marked with a blanched almond. It has no eggs and no butter in this refugee kitchen version. The crumb is coarse, chewy, and scented with Chios mastic, and the syrup sits in it like a promise kept.
One method decides it: crush the mastic tears with a spoonful of sugar before they go near the semolina. Mastic is resin, stubborn and sticky; left whole, it hides in bitter little beads. Ground with sugar, it disappears through the batter and perfumes the cake evenly.
Samali should not be fluffy like revani. It should hold the knife, drink cold syrup while hot, and slice clean after a long rest. I learned to leave it alone from the Politisses of Thessaloniki, women of the City by memory and habit, who were never sentimental about sweets: cut it too soon, and the plate tells on you. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, but a syrup cake also needs patience.
Samali belongs to the Ottoman sweet-making route that carried semolina syrup cakes between Damascus, Constantinople, Smyrna, and Chios; its name is usually linked to Şam, Damascus. Greek versions became Politiko and Smyrnaiko through the pastry shops and home kitchens of the late Ottoman cities, then moved west with Asia Minor refugees after 1922. The Chios mastic is the Greek signature, turning a plain syrup cake into the perfumed semolina sweet still sold in Thessaloniki and Athens zacharoplasteia, the Greek pastry shops.
Quantity
550g
for the syrup
Quantity
480ml
for the syrup
Quantity
1 wide strip
for the syrup
Quantity
15ml
for the syrup
Quantity
500g
Quantity
220g
for the cake
Quantity
1g
about 5 to 6 small tears
Quantity
10g
Quantity
3g
Quantity
2g
Quantity
500g
Quantity
15ml
for greasing the pan
Quantity
16
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| granulated sugarfor the syrup | 550g |
| waterfor the syrup | 480ml |
| lemon peelfor the syrup | 1 wide strip |
| fresh lemon juicefor the syrup | 15ml |
| coarse semolina (chondro simigdali) | 500g |
| granulated sugarfor the cake | 220g |
| Chios mastic tears (masticha)about 5 to 6 small tears | 1g |
| baking powder | 10g |
| baking soda | 3g |
| fine sea salt | 2g |
| full-fat Greek yogurt | 500g |
| light olive oil or neutral oilfor greasing the pan | 15ml |
| blanched almonds | 16 |
Put 550g sugar, the water, and lemon peel in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes until clear and lightly thickened. Stir in the lemon juice, take it off the heat, and let it cool completely. Cold syrup waiting for hot cake is the cleanest way here.
Take 1 tablespoon from the cake sugar and pound it with the mastic tears in a mortar until fine and sandy. Mastic is resin, stubborn and sticky; sugar keeps it moving so it perfumes the crumb instead of hiding in little bitter beads.
In a large bowl, stir the semolina, remaining cake sugar, crushed mastic sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the yogurt and mix until you have a thick, heavy batter, closer to wet sand than sponge cake. Oil a 24 x 34cm metal tapsi and spread the batter evenly. Cover and rest for 45 minutes, so the semolina swells before it bakes.
Heat the oven to 180C conventional or 170C fan. Smooth the surface with a wet spatula, then score the top into 16 diamonds or squares and press one almond into the center of each piece. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is deep honey-gold, the edges pull slightly from the pan, and the center feels set under your finger.
As soon as the samali comes from the oven, deepen the scored lines with a sharp knife. Pour the cold syrup over the hot cake slowly, especially along the cuts and edges. It will look like too much. Leave it alone. The semolina drinks patiently.
Let the samali stand uncovered until it reaches room temperature, then cover loosely and rest at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Cut along the scored lines and serve small pieces with Greek coffee or a glass of cold water. It should be dense, glossy, and clean under the knife.
1 serving (about 130g)
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