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Created by Chef Lupita
Mérida's stadium snack: hand-formed masa balls stuffed with chicharrón prensado and black beans, fried in lard until the shell turns mahogany and hard as the stones they are named for.
These come from Mérida, Yucatán. Not from the cookbook of Yucatán's grand cuisine, the cochinita pibil and the relleno negro, but from the side of it. Piedras are stadium food, market food, the snack a vendor sells out of a basket while you walk through the centro on a Sunday afternoon. The name means stones, and once you bite one you understand why. The shell is hard. That hardness is the whole point.
Like most great working-class dishes, piedras were born from leftovers. The masa balls are essentially polcanes, the Yucatecan stuffed masa pockets filled with espelón beans and chicharrón, re-fried the next day until the outside hardens into a shell. Someone in a Mérida kitchen had cold polcanes and a pot of lard and a family to feed, and the second frying turned a soft snack into something different: a piedra. Now you can buy them fresh at stalls outside the Estadio Kukulcán during baseball games and at the stands around Parque de las Américas.
The Peninsula has its own grammar and you have to respect it. Chicharrón prensado, not puffed chicharrón. Manteca de cerdo, not vegetable oil. Cebolla morada cured in naranja agria, not white vinegar. Habanero, not jalapeño. Epazote in the bean mash because that is what grows in the solar yucateco. If you cannot find these things, the dish you make will not be a piedra. It will be a fried masa ball with stuff in it. Esto no es comida de un solo México. Cada estado, su propia cocina, and this one belongs to Yucatán.
Quantity
2 cups
Maseca for tortillas works, but freshly ground nixtamal masa is better
Quantity
1 1/2 cups, plus more as needed
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| masa harinaMaseca for tortillas works, but freshly ground nixtamal masa is better | 2 cups |
| warm water | 1 1/2 cups, plus more as needed |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
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