
Chef Takumi
Chocolate Shu Cream (チョコレートシュークリーム, Chokorēto Shū Kurīmu)
Chocolate shu cream is judged twice: first by the hollow shell, then by the custard. Dry the dough properly, choose chocolate with backbone, and the little puff behaves.
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Two pastries share one small shell: flaky pie outside, tender choux within, and cool custard piped in only after the shell has cooled enough to keep its shape.
Pai shū looks like the kind of bakery sweet that has been made difficult for sport. It hasn't. There are two doughs, yes, but they do different, simple jobs: the pie pastry gives flake and a little bite, while the choux underneath swells into a hollow shell for the cream. Once you understand why that hollow forms, the whole thing stops looking so proud of itself.
The choux is the part to respect. Cook the flour with butter, water, and milk until the paste pulls from the pan and leaves a thin film on the bottom. That drying matters because too much water in the dough makes it slack, while just enough trapped moisture becomes steam in the oven and lifts the shell from inside. Then the eggs go in slowly, until the dough falls from the spoon in a thick ribbon. Not stiff, not runny. It should hold its shape and still look alive.
The oven must be hot enough at the start to set the outside before the steam escapes. That is the first secret. If the shell sets too late, the puff collapses like a paper hat in rain, a sad object and nobody's fault but the oven's. Let the baked shells cool completely before you pipe the cream, because warm pastry melts custard and softens the flake you worked for.
In a Japanese bakery case, pai shū sits in the comfortable space between yōgashi, Western-style sweets adopted into Japanese baking, and the restraint we still ask of a finished dish. The cream is generous but not theatrical. The shell is crisp, the custard cool, and the plate has room. Honmono doesn't need to shout.
Choux cream became common in Japan as part of yōgashi, Western-style confectionery, after Meiji-era bakers adapted European pastry for Japanese shops and tearooms. The pie-wrapped form, known as pai shū, became especially familiar through late twentieth-century Japanese bakery chains, most famously Beard Papa, founded in Osaka in 1999. Its appeal lies in a practical bakery idea: bake a sturdy, crisp shell first, then pipe the custard after cooling so the filling stays fresh and the pastry stays light.
Quantity
1 sheet
thawed but still cold
Quantity
60g
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
75g
sifted
Quantity
2 to 3
beaten
Quantity
2 cups
chilled
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| frozen puff pastrythawed but still cold | 1 sheet |
| unsalted butter | 60g |
| water | 90ml |
| whole milk | 60ml |
| granulated sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| all-purpose floursifted | 75g |
| large eggsbeaten | 2 to 3 |
| pastry creamchilled | 2 cups |
| powdered sugar (optional) | for dusting |
Keep the puff pastry cold and cut it into ten squares, each about 8cm across. Cold butter in the pastry is what makes the layers lift and flake in the oven, so if the sheet softens, set it back in the refrigerator for ten minutes. Lay the squares on a tray and chill while you make the choux.
Put the butter, water, milk, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan and bring it to a full boil. Add the flour all at once and stir hard with a wooden spoon. Adding the flour in one motion lets it hydrate evenly, so you don't chase dry lumps around the pan.
Keep stirring over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the dough gathers into a smooth ball and a thin film forms on the bottom of the pan. This drying is not ceremony. It drives off extra water so the eggs can be absorbed properly, while leaving enough moisture to turn into lift inside the oven.
Move the dough to a bowl and let it cool for 3 minutes, just so it no longer feels hot enough to scramble the eggs. Beat in the eggs a little at a time, stopping before the dough turns loose. You're looking for a glossy paste that drops from the spoon in a thick V-shaped ribbon and still holds a mound when piped.
Heat the oven to 200°C. Pipe ten mounds of choux, each about 4cm wide, onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drape one cold puff pastry square over each mound and press only lightly around the sides. Don't seal it tight. The choux needs room to push upward as steam opens the hollow center.
Bake for 15 minutes at 200°C, then lower the oven to 180°C and bake 15 to 20 minutes more, until the shells are deep golden, crisp, and light when lifted. The first heat sets the outside before the steam escapes; the lower heat finishes drying the shell so it doesn't collapse after the door opens. Do not open the oven during the first 20 minutes.
Transfer the shells to a rack and let them cool completely. This is where patience protects the work. A warm shell turns the custard slack and dampens the pie layer from the inside, and then you have made soft pastry with great discipline, a small tragedy.
Make a small hole in the bottom of each shell and pipe in chilled pastry cream until the puff feels gently heavy in your hand. Dust lightly with powdered sugar if you like. Fill them close to serving time, because pai shū is at its best when the shell is crisp and the cream is cool.
1 serving (about 100g)
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