Pa-kimchi (Scallion Kimchi)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide kimchi basin or large mixing bowl
• •Food-safe gloves
• •1.5 to 2 liter glass or kimchi container with lid
• •Small saucepan

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean the scallions

   Trim only the root threads from the jjokpa, leaving the white bulb end whole. Peel away any tough outer skin, wash gently, and drain until the scallions are no longer wet. Water left between the leaves thins the seasoning and makes the kimchi taste flat, so give them at least 20 minutes in a colander.

2. 2

   Make the paste base

   Whisk the sweet rice flour and water in a small pot. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until it turns glossy and lightly thick, about 3 to 5 minutes. Cool it completely. This paste helps the gochugaru cling to the long scallions instead of sliding to the bottom of the jar.

3. 3

   Mix the seasoning

   Stir the cooled rice paste with the anchovy fish sauce, gochugaru, garlic, ginger, and maesil-cheong. Let it stand 10 minutes so the chili flakes bloom and soften. Taste a fingertip of the paste. It should be salty, pungent, and a little sweet, stronger than you want the finished kimchi, because the scallions will take it in as they ferment.

4. 4

   Dress by hand

   Put the scallions in a wide bowl or kimchi basin. Spoon the seasoning mostly over the white bulb ends first, then work it along the greens with gloved hands. Do not crush them. The white ends are thicker and sharper, so they need more attention than the leaves. Fold the long scallions into loose bundles only after they are coated.

   This is not salted first like napa cabbage kimchi. The fish sauce seasons and wilts the scallions at the same time, which keeps their clean bite.
5. 5

   Pack the jar

   Lay the bundles into a clean 1.5 to 2 liter jar or container, curling them gently so the white ends and greens stay together. Scrape every bit of seasoning over the top and press down to remove air pockets. Leave at least 2.5cm of headspace because kimchi rises as it ferments.

6. 6

   Start fermentation

   Leave the jar at cool room temperature for 12 to 24 hours, with a plate underneath in case it bubbles over. When you see small bubbles at the side and the sharp raw scallion smell begins to round off, move it to the refrigerator. If your kitchen is hot, stop at 12 hours. Heat makes pa-kimchi race.

7. 7

   Ripen and serve

   Refrigerate for 5 to 7 days before serving if you can wait. The first day it bites back. By the end of the week, the fish sauce, chili, and scallion have settled into one clean, bold kimchi. Cut bundles into shorter lengths at the table with scissors, or serve them whole beside rice.

Chef Tips

• •Use jjokpa if you can find it. Western scallions are often thicker and harsher, so choose the thinnest bunches and cut any very fat bulbs lengthwise so they season evenly.
• •Do not reduce the fish sauce too far. It looks like a lot in the bowl, but pa-kimchi needs that salt to ferment cleanly and season the thick white ends.
• •A little sweetness is useful, not decorative. Maesil-cheong rounds the fish sauce and helps fermentation, but too much makes the kimchi heavy. Two tablespoons is enough for 900g scallions.
• •For storage, press the kimchi back under its seasoning each time you serve it. Use clean tongs. Kept cold, it is best for 3 to 5 weeks, growing sharper and better for stews as it ages.

Advance Preparation

• •Pa-kimchi should be made at least 5 days before you plan to serve it. A full week in the refrigerator gives the scallions time to mellow.
• •You can clean and drain the scallions up to 6 hours ahead. Keep them covered in the refrigerator, then let them lose their chill for 20 minutes before dressing.
• •The rice paste can be cooked 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Bring it back to cool room temperature before mixing the seasoning so the gochugaru blooms evenly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 155g)