
Chef Jeong-sun
Aehobak-guk (애호박국, Korean Zucchini Soup)
A clean summer soup of Korean zucchini and salted shrimp, built on quick anchovy-kelp broth and finished before the half-moons lose their shape on a weeknight table.
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A clean Korean squid and radish soup for weeknights, built on sweet winter mu and a quick anchovy-kelp broth, with the squid added at the end before it turns tough.
Ojingeo-muguk lives or dies in the last three minutes. People blame squid for being rubbery, but squid is only telling you it was boiled too long. Cook the radish first, let it sweeten the broth, season the pot, and only then add the squid. That order is the dish.
My teacher Master Seong-nyeo would tap the side of the pot when a student rushed the seafood in. Not loud. Worse than loud. The radish needs time because mu (Korean radish) gives sweetness slowly, especially in cold months when it is dense and heavy for its size. The squid needs almost no time because its flesh tightens fast. One ingredient asks for patience, the other asks for restraint. Keep them separate in your thinking and the soup stays clear, clean, and kind to the teeth.
This is weeknight soup, budget food, the kind served with rice, kimchi, and one or two banchan when the table needs to feel complete without ceremony. In Gyeongsang homes you will often see it kept clear, with soup soy sauce and salt doing the work. In Jeolla, a small spoon of doenjang sometimes goes in, not enough to make doenjang-jjigae, just enough to round the sea taste. I give both paths because kitchens are not one village.
Use good radish. Use fresh squid if your market has it, frozen if that is what the month gives you. 시대가 바뀌면 음식도 바뀌어야 해요. When times change, food must change too. The vessel can be a stainless pot, the squid can be cleaned by the fishmonger, but the knife work and the timing cannot be careless.
Ojingeo-muguk belongs to Korea's everyday family of muguk, radish soups that change by region and pantry: beef in many inland homes, seafood along the coasts, and dried anchovy broth where the table needed thrift. Squid became especially common in modern home cooking as coastal markets and cold storage made it inexpensive beyond fishing towns. Regional seasoning still shows in the bowl, with clear, lightly seasoned versions associated with Gyeongsang home kitchens and doenjang-rounded versions found in parts of Jeolla.
Quantity
1 medium, about 350g before cleaning
cleaned and cut into bite-size strips
Quantity
450g
peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick rectangles
Quantity
7 cups
Quantity
1 piece, about 4 inches square
Quantity
10
heads and guts removed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more as needed
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
2
sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for Jeolla-style variation
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh squidcleaned and cut into bite-size strips | 1 medium, about 350g before cleaning |
| Korean radish (mu)peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick rectangles | 450g |
| water | 7 cups |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 4 inches square |
| large dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 10 |
| neutral oil or perilla oil | 1 tablespoon |
| soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) | 1 tablespoon |
| fish sauce or Korean tuna sauce (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more as needed |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 small |
| scallionssliced on the diagonal | 2 |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| doenjang (fermented soybean paste) (optional)for Jeolla-style variation | 1 tablespoon |
Pull the head and innards from the body, remove the clear quill, cut away the eyes and beak, and rinse the body and tentacles under cold water. Peel off the purple skin if you want a cleaner-looking soup; leave some on if you like a stronger squid taste. Cut the body into 2-inch by 1/2-inch strips and cut the tentacles into bite-size lengths. Keep the squid cold while you make the broth.
Put the water, kelp, and anchovies in a pot over medium heat. When small bubbles gather at the edge, pull out the kelp. Let the anchovies simmer 10 minutes more, then remove them. Kelp turns slick and bitter if you forget it, and anchovies give cleaner broth when their heads and guts are removed.
Cut the radish into rectangles about 2 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 1/4 inch thick. Do not dice it small. Radish cut this way softens in the center but still gives you a clear bite on the spoon, and each piece has enough surface to sweeten the broth.
Heat the oil in a clean pot over medium heat. Add the radish and stir for 2 minutes, just until the edges look slightly glossy. This brief frying coats the radish and helps it give sweetness without falling apart. Pour in 6 cups of the anchovy-kelp broth and bring it to a steady simmer.
Add the soup soy sauce, fish sauce if using, garlic, salt, and gochugaru if you want a little warmth. Simmer 12 to 15 minutes, until the radish turns translucent at the edges and a chopstick slides in with only a little resistance. Taste the broth now, before the squid goes in. It should be savory and lightly sweet, a little underseasoned, because the squid will add its own sea flavor.
Raise the heat so the soup returns to a lively simmer, then add the squid. Cook 2 to 3 minutes only, stirring once or twice, until the strips curl and turn opaque. Stop there. Too long and the squid tightens into rubber, and no seasoning can apologize for that.
Turn off the heat. Add the scallions, green chili if using, and black pepper. Taste once more and adjust with a pinch of salt only if the broth feels flat. Serve at once with hot rice and kimchi, while the radish is sweet and the squid is still tender.
1 serving (about 570g)
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