
Chef Jeong-sun
Auk-guk (Mallow Soup)
Late-summer mallow leaves rubbed with salt until the bitter green water runs off, then simmered in a clean doenjang broth with dried shrimp, the quiet soup a Korean weeknight deserves.
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A clean summer soup of Korean zucchini and salted shrimp, built on quick anchovy-kelp broth and finished before the half-moons lose their shape on a weeknight table.
Summer aehobak is a forgiving vegetable until you put it in the pot too early. Then it gives up and disappears. At the market near my childhood house in Suwon, the best ones were pale green and heavy for their size, with skins thin enough that my mother never peeled them. She bought two, not a sack. This soup is for the day you want rice, kimchi, and one clean bowl, not a table trying to impress anyone.
The whole soup lives or dies by timing and salt. Build a short anchovy-kelp broth, season it with saeujeot (salted fermented shrimp), then add the zucchini late, just long enough for the edges to turn translucent while the centers still hold. Notebook 18 says 2 teaspoons of minced saeujeot for 5 cups of water, with another 1/2 teaspoon only after tasting. That number matters because saeujeot can swing from gentle to fierce, and a mild vegetable has no place to hide a heavy hand.
My teacher Master Seong-nyeo would tap the side of the pot when students wandered off at this point. Stay there. Five minutes of attention keeps the half-moons tender instead of melted, and the broth stays clear enough to taste the vegetable. Cook the month you're standing in. In summer, aehobak deserves this bowl; in winter, make radish soup and wait for the squash to come back.
Squash reached Korea after the sixteenth-century Columbian exchange, and by the late Joseon period the broad name hobak was used for several squashes; aehobak means the young, tender one harvested before its seeds harden. Saeujeot (salted fermented shrimp) has long been a practical coastal seasoning for clear soups and mild vegetables, especially in Seoul and Gyeonggi home cooking, because it seasons without turning the broth dark. Aehobak-guk belongs to the everyday summer table, not palace ceremony: a short broth, a seasonal vegetable, and one measured spoon of fermented seafood beside rice.
Quantity
5 cups
Quantity
1 piece, about 3 by 4 inches
Quantity
10
heads and guts removed
Quantity
1 medium, about 300g
trimmed, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1/4-inch half-moons
Quantity
1/2 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus 1/2 to 1 teaspoon more after tasting
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1
sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
up to 1/4 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| water | 5 cups |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 3 by 4 inches |
| large dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 10 |
| aehobak (Korean zucchini)trimmed, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1/4-inch half-moons | 1 medium, about 300g |
| onionthinly sliced | 1/2 small |
| saeujeot (salted fermented shrimp)minced | 2 teaspoons, plus 1/2 to 1 teaspoon more after tasting |
| soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| scallionsliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 |
| fine sea salt (optional) | up to 1/4 teaspoon |
Trim the aehobak and halve it lengthwise, then cut it into 1/4-inch half-moons. Keep the pieces even, because this soup gives you only a few minutes between tender and collapsed. Do not peel it. The skin helps the half-moons hold their shape and shows you when the edges have softened.
Put the water, kelp, and anchovies in a 2-quart pot over medium heat. When small bubbles gather at the edge, lift out the kelp before it turns the broth slick and bitter. Simmer the anchovies 8 minutes more, then strain them out. Measure the broth; you should have about 4 1/2 cups. Add a splash of water if it has reduced below that.
Return the broth to the pot and bring it to a gentle simmer. Add the onion, 2 teaspoons minced saeujeot, soup soy sauce, and garlic. Simmer 2 minutes, just long enough for the onion to lose its raw edge and the salted shrimp to season the broth.
Add the aehobak and keep the soup at a gentle simmer, not a hard boil. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the edges of the half-moons turn translucent and the centers are still pale green. A spoon should bend a piece without breaking it. This is the point of the dish, so do not walk away.
Add the scallion and green chili, if using, and simmer 30 seconds. Taste the broth. If it is flat, add another 1/2 teaspoon saeujeot; if it is savory but still shy of salt, add a pinch of fine sea salt, up to 1/4 teaspoon. Ladle the soup into bowls at once and serve with rice and kimchi, before the zucchini keeps cooking in the bowl.
1 serving (about 350g)
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