Oden Eggs (おでん卵, Oden Tamago)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Fine-mesh strainer lined with a clean cloth
• •Wooden drop-lid (otoshibuta), or a circle of parchment
• •Slotted spoon for lowering eggs
• •Saucepan deep enough to keep the eggs covered

Instructions

1. 1

   Steep the konbu

   Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth, but don't wash it. Put it in 5 cups cold water and warm it slowly over low heat, 10 to 12 minutes. Pull the konbu when the water trembles and small bubbles climb the sides of the pot, before it reaches a full boil. Boiled konbu gives the stock a faint bitterness and a slick feel, and this egg needs clear broth more than it needs drama.

   That pale dust on the konbu is flavor, not dirt. A damp wipe removes grit while leaving the good part where it belongs.
2. 2

   Add the bonito

   Bring the konbu water to a gentle boil, add the katsuobushi all at once, and take the pot off the heat. Leave the flakes alone until they sink, 2 to 3 minutes; stirring muddies the flavor. Strain through a cloth or fine-mesh strainer and let it drip. Don't squeeze, because squeezing presses strong, oily flavors into the clear gold dashi.

   The flakes have already given what you want. Pressing them only asks for the rougher part.
3. 3

   Boil the eggs

   While the dashi stands, bring a saucepan of water to a gentle boil. Lower in the eggs with a spoon and cook 9 minutes for large eggs, keeping the water lively but not violent. They need to be set, but not chalky, because the broth will cook them again. Move them straight into ice water and let them cool 10 minutes; the cold sets the white and helps the shell let go.

4. 4

   Peel them cleanly

   Crack each egg all over and peel under cool running water or in the ice bath. Start at the wider end, where the air pocket gives your thumb a little help. Keep the whites as smooth as you can. A torn white still tastes fine, but a smooth one stains evenly and looks like someone was paying attention.

5. 5

   Season the broth

   Measure the strained dashi; you want about 4 1/2 cups, so add a little water if needed. Add the usukuchi shōyu, mirin, sake, sugar, and salt, then bring it just to a simmer for 2 minutes. Taste it. It should be well seasoned but still drinkable, a shade stronger than clear soup, because a whole egg takes flavor slowly.

   If the broth tastes thin, add a little more dashi or time, not a handful of salt. The egg should taste of stock first.
6. 6

   Simmer very low

   Nestle the peeled eggs into the broth in one layer. Set a wooden drop-lid (otoshibuta) over them, or use a circle of parchment with a small hole in the center, and keep the broth at the barest simmer for 30 minutes. The lid keeps the tops wet without stirring; hard boiling tightens the whites before the broth can pass through them. Turn any exposed eggs once or twice if your pot is shallow.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Turn off the heat and let the eggs rest in the broth at least 1 hour, or cool them and refrigerate overnight in the broth. This rest is not laziness, though it may look usefully similar. The amber color and the seasoned yolk come from time, not a stronger boil. Rewarm gently and serve each egg with a little broth and a small dab of karashi on the side.

Chef Tips

• •Choose eggs a few days old rather than eggs laid yesterday. Very fresh eggs cling to the shell, and oden tamago is one of those plain things where a ragged peel announces itself.
• •Use usukuchi shōyu for a paler Kansai-leaning broth, or koikuchi shōyu for the darker Kantō look. Both belong to real oden; what matters is that the broth still tastes like dashi, not a soy sauce bath.
• •For a meatless table, soak 1 piece konbu and 3 dried shiitake in the water overnight, warm gently, and season the same way. That temple-kitchen stock is honmono, not a compromise, but it will taste deeper and earthier than bonito dashi.
• •If serving these in a full oden pot, make the eggs a day ahead and add them during the final gentle warm-through. They don't need a second long boil. They need to stay tender.

Advance Preparation

• •The dashi can be made two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Warm it gently before seasoning.
• •Oden eggs are best after an overnight rest in the broth. Cool the pot briefly, then refrigerate the eggs submerged.
• •Store the peeled eggs in their broth up to 3 days refrigerated. Reheat gently, and don't leave them at room temperature longer than 2 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 230g)